Casting

Prospecting for Trout II

Your rating: None
Class Code: 
3677
Syllabus: 

In this class the student will learn how the habitat differs for the various species as well as what other factors are involved in finding trout; such factors as suspended oxygen and temperatures.

Course Content: 
 
Rainbows In Open Water
Rainbows will usually be found in more open water, whether it's riffly like this or slow and smooth. Brown trout have even been known to burrow in gravel when frightened, but the behavior of frightened rainbows betrays their lack of concern with overhead cover. Rainbows, when spooked, usually head en masse to the deepest part of a pool, and when you walk by you can observe what biologists call "fright huddles" — groups of rainbows all packed together, fins trembling. You never see browns mixed in with them because all the browns have headed to the bank with its more substantial cover. Brook trout seem to use cover less than browns but more than rainbows, so you will more often find them farther from cover and from the bank than browns. Where cutthroats and brook trout are found together, biologists have seen more use of cover by the brook trout. So if you know a river contains only brown trout, spend more time casting tight to the banks than out in the middle. If it holds only rainbows, bless their hearts, you can concentrate on the easier places in the middle of the river. But don't ever completely ignore the banks. The middle of the Railroad Ranch section of Henry's Fork in Idaho is essentially featureless, as most of the water is one long flat without big rocks. The better rainbows are near the banks, possibly because of cover, but more likely because the current along the banks is reduced enough to form areas of slower water with access to the food carried by the current.

 

How the Setting Can Change

Even in the same stream at the same time of year, you cannot approach the tail of a pool with the casual tactics that might work in a riffle.

Four minutes from where I sit in an office eight hours a day is a tiny stream that is my laboratory, escape valve, and forty-five-minute retreat. I can fish three or four pools on my lunch hour. In one favorite half-mile stretch I know virtually every fish except the unseen brown trout that I suspect inhabit a couple of deep undercut banks at the base of streamside maples. I have never caught one of these elusive browns, but I imagine them sulking in a tangle of drowned roots, oblivious to my flies but capable of eating a six-inch brook trout followed by a three-day fast. At the beginning of each season I mark a couple of gullible brook trout by clipping their adipose fins so I can follow their progress through the season. If I can figure out where they are living, I can almost always catch them. In early spring they are in the deeper, slower pools, and to catch them you need a large nymph fished close to the bottom, with no drag at all. As water temperatures rise above 55 degrees and flies start to hatch, they will be pulled from the pools into shallow riffles. Now a dry fly will work, as will a wet fly or nymph that swings across the current. As water levels fall during the summer, they can be hard to find, and whenever I fail to catch one that has been in the same spot for a couple of months, I start to imagine my brookie in an aluminum­foil coffin in somebody's freezer, or in the belly of a heron or otter. With the lower water levels it's also likely that there are fewer places in this little stream that can hold trout, and my friends were pushed downstream by more aggressive trout. In summer most of the trout are concentrated in only the deepest holes and in the heads of pools — it may be a hundred feet between places that hold trout.

During the winter and early in the season trout are more concerned with avoiding anchor ice and floods than they are with eating. There are few insects in the drift for them to capture, and their metabolisms are slowed to the point where they take little advantage of the food that might be available. Shallow water can be scoured by floating ice and anchor ice, which grows from the bottom of the river, so look for trout in deep-water refuges, out of the main current. When there is no ice, though, I have caught them on sunny days in shallow riffles, and because I doubt trout spend the winter in water like this, I suspect they move into places that are warmed by the sun as spring starts to wake up the river. As the water temperature approaches 50 degrees, and insects begin to drift and hatch, the fish migrate to shallow riffles and the heads of pools to take advantage of insect life at its source. You can gauge the migration time by the first major hatch of the season. In the East, if you blind-fish before the Hendrickson hatch, you'll find most trout in the side eddies and backwaters, but as soon as this first big hatch begins, the trout appear in riffles, in tails of pools, and out in the main current. They're still there on days when the flies don't hatch, and early in the morning on days when flies don't hatch until midafternoon.

There they will stay until low water and high temperatures shrink the comfortable places in a stream and concentrate the trout. As habitats contract, trout don't move far, sometimes just from one side of the pool to another, or from the middle to the head. In the tail of a big pool on the lower Battenkill, I found a pod of a half-dozen large brown trout one late spring evening, and I returned a couple of evenings a week to work them over. By the middle of the summer I had caught and released most of them, including a couple that I fin-clipped. A vacation kept me away from them for ten days, and when I returned the places where they had been feeding were almost dry. I couldn't find a single one. One night I happened to look at the other side of the river, which was deeper but had never produced a fish, I guess because this deeper pocket was out of the main current and did not supply enough food. There were several good fish rising there, and sure enough, over the next several weeks I caught some that I had clipped. As I looked carefully at the water, I saw that their new home was deep enough to keep them secure. The current had shifted because of a newly exposed gravel bar, and by the looks of the bubble line coming down through the pool, most of the food was now funneled to the opposite side of the river.

Oxygenated Water
Look for oxygenated water like this in the late season. Margot Page photo.

In the tough late season there are three keys to finding trout: temperature, oxygen, and flow. If you remember them, you will catch trout all day long, even in the noonday heat of August when there is slim chance of any kind of hatch.

Temperature: Look for springs entering the river. Even springs whose surface flow runs dry during the summer usually offer some flow below the dry channel, so a scar of clean rocks along the bank that looks as though it might have been a tributary in early spring may tip you off to some cooler water. In general any entering tributary will be cooler than the main river, so look for trout below the confluence of a smaller and a larger stream. Wade wet to find springs entering the river beneath the streambed.

Oxygen: Water's oxygen content is inversely related to its tem­perature, so if you can't find the cooler water, which holds more oxygen, look for places where oxygen is forced into the water by physical means. Riffles, runs, pocket water, the bases of dams — trout will move to these places in midsummer, often leaving the rest of a pool barren.

Flow: This important factor of midsummer trout fishing is often overlooked. Trout won't live where they can't eat, and during low water their options are limited, making stream reading easier. Especially in slower pools, don't look for trout anywhere but right under the bubble line, because flow is reduced to a point where only the main current offers enough food. If you can't locate the bubble line or it doesn't seem to help, another way of finding trout is to look at the stones on the bottom. Once when I was fishing a stream known for its wild rainbows, I was in a wide riffle that holds scores of trout during the spring, and I knew some of them had to be around, even though the water looked too shallow. At first the entire riffle looked daunting and I couldn't decide where to start. Then as I stared at the water, I noticed something. Most of the rocks on the bottom were covered with a thin film of dusty-looking silt, but in places that were slightly deeper and had a stronger current, the rocks had been wiped clean. That gave me some targets, and by pitching a Flashabou Caddis Larva into the narrow lanes of clean stones, I picked up a half-dozen ten-inch fish, more than I would have expected in such a flat, shallow riffle.  Exerpts from The Orvis Guide to Prospecting for Trout.  by Tom Rosenbauer

Assignments: 

Review what has been learned in the previous class, Class 367 Prospecting for Trout in Springs and Banks. On your next fishing outing be aware of the temperature, the flow and the other characteristics that are given in this class.

Fly Fishing The Slingslotting Technique

Your rating: None

Recently we at Troutu had a question about a method of fly fishing called the “Bow and Arrow” or “Slingshotting” technique. This is a fly fishing technique that is often employed here in the Smokies to reach trout that are otherwise not able to be reached by the traditional fly casting methods. The “Bow and Arrow” method has been used by many old time anglers in the Appalachians and still is effective today.  

However, we have taken the technique one small step further by applying it to both the standing position and the kneeling position as well. Kneeling is often required in some streams in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. These streams are indeed very small, often overgrown with rhododendrons and more often than not overlooked by anglers as well. The rhododendrons were designed by God to have branches the exact size for catching fly fishing hooks. Anglers must use special patience and skill in avoiding getting the line tangled in them.
 
As a result of the questions, we have included Class 217 Fly Fishing Slingshotting Style in the curriculum.
 
 

Fly Fishing Slingshotting Style

Your rating: None
Class Code: 
217
Syllabus: 

On small streams especially here in the Smokies, casting room is often at a premium. Many small streams are usually overhung with rhododendrons bushes or other branches. In these situations, the technique called slingshotting can be successfully employed. Upon completion of this course, the student will be able to penetrate the small secluded streams where there is almost no fishing pressure and where the surprisingly large browns often are lurking.

Course Content: 

the Great Smoky Mountains National Park has many of those often overlooked small streams capable of sustaining a healthy trout population. The brook trout’s habitat is in these very streams high in the mountains. Also, there are some very nice holes that may harbor some exceptionally wary browns who think that some of the branches will provide security from predators.

In these particular situations, roll casts may be used when there isn’t enough room for a backcast. However, sometimes there isn’t even enough room for a roll cast, and the forward cast may require pinpoint accuracy. This is why we have employed and further developed a technique called slingshotting. 
 
The older anglers native to the Appalachians will always refer to this method of fishing as “Bow and Arrow” fishing. We prefer to call it “Slingshotting” since bow and arrow fly fishing might imply a standing position only. The reason we further developed the process and call it slingshotting is that it is often employed on your knees to get under the very low branches. This is not your father’s fly fishing, but it is very effective.
 
Slingshotting, as the name implies, uses the spring-like action of the fly rod and line, bow and arrow style, to shoot the fly through the air. While this technique can be used for any type of fly, it is most useful for dry flies. The advantages of slingshotting include accuracy, compact low level casting, and wind-defiance. The distance that can be achieved with this technique is slightly more than double the length of the fly rod, which is a good reason to use a long fly rod. To make a slingshot cast, use the following techniques. Note that you can, of course, reverse which hands and feet you use if you are left handed or if the situation demands it.
         
Pull a length of line equal to the rod’s length plus about an additional foot past the rod’s tip. For example, if you’re using an 8 foot fly rod, there should be about 9 feet of line extending past the rod’s tip. The exact length of line to achieve the best tensioning in the line will be determined by your arms’ lengths. Also, you will need a short (at least a few inches) of the actual fly line (i.e. not just leader) extending past the end of the rod, to achieve the most favorable casting dynamics.
 
Place your feet a shoulder’s width apart, with the right foot ahead of the left foot, toward the direction of the cast. If you are kneeling, try to get a comfortable stable position.
 
Take the fly’s hook in your left hand, being careful to grab the hook from the sides on the bend of the hook. You should pinch the bend of the hook from the sides, using your thumb and index finger. The key here is to make sure that no part of your hand is in front of the point of the hook; otherwise you will feel a severe twinge of pain when you cast. Learned this from experience.  Maintain this grip on the hook’s shank until you are ready to make the cast.

Raise the fly rod (reel side down) in your right hand, being sure the fly line and leader are not tangled on the rod. Point the rod in the direction of the cast. 

Apply medium tension in the rod and line by extending your right arm in the direction of the cast, and your left hand in the opposite direction. The tension in the rod should not be so great that you can’t hold the rod steady. Keep this tension until you make the cast. You should now look like you’re going to shoot a bow and arrow.
 
Aim the fly by looking down the rod length as if you were aiming a gun and then make the final corrections in your aiming of the rod, and release the hook from your left hand, being careful not to hook your arms, hands, or clothing after the release. Be aware that the rod will snap forward during the recoil. Do not allow it to hit the water, thereby scaring the trout.
Practice slingshotting, until you can cast accurately and consistently with either hand. Also, work on casting in such a way that the fly lands softly on the water. You may want to tip the rod a bit to employ a bit of sidearm motion to it, such that the fly is not coming straight down onto the water, to avoid making a big splash, or to get underneath some tree branches, etc.
 
Using this technique, you can actually cast through low hanging tree branches and against the wind. Also, you won’t have to climb the tree behind you to retrieve a fly caught during one of your backcasts.

 

Assignments: 

Practice, practice, practice!

Fly Casting Methods

Your rating: None Average: 4 (1 vote)

Trout University has developed another class in the graduate series of complex classes.  Class 422 Exploring Various Casting Methods is not for everyone, it for the experienced fly fisherman who needs some casts in his arsnel for the most challenging situations.  When we use the term "skip casts" we are not talking about skipping stones!

Exploring Various Casting Methods

Your rating: None
Class Code: 
422
Syllabus: 

Upon completion of this class the students will have two new types of casts in their arsnel.  These casts can be used under some difficult situations perhaps in smaller streams. This class is desinged to increase the students catch per centage in small or difficult streams. However a word of caution:  The student should not attempt these casts until they have become proficient in the use of the casting techniques taught in previous classes.

Course Content: 

 Skip Casts:
IT USUALLY TAKES ME three or four casts to finally put the fly over the fish where I'd like it to land. But I'm a believer in presenting the first few casts to a spot that will be at least a foot or two to my side of the fish. If the fish is really hungry, it'll often charge over to grab the fly. If it doesn't, I can gradually work the fly in closer to the fish's holding spot and get better floats as I adjust the angle of my casting arm and the power of the cast for more dramatic left hooks.

I'll work the bankside run as far as I can with comfortable fifteen- to twenty-five-foot casts upstream and to the left. But before I lengthen my casts I'll try to gradually work the little dry fly in tight to the bank just in case there is a fish that I can't see under the shady willows. Getting a fly under low-hanging willows or any other kind of brush can be almost impossible from my standing position. And it's a good way to lose a lot of flies.

I'm not one who can execute all the fancy "on-my-knees sidearm casts" that I've seen the experts demonstrate to shoot a fly for fifteen feet a few inches above the water. Once in a while, when I'm really on, I can get a fly to skip under the low, overhanging brush by overpowering a low sidearm cast. It takes a little practice to make a skip cast work because you have to aim the fly to hit the water immediately under the overhanging branch with enough sidearm force to cause it to skip back under the brush. The fly actually hits the water behind a short loop of line and leader, which picks up the fly and throws it back under the brush.

To make this work, the casting loop must be in a near horizontal position with the fly trailing lower than the loop. If the angle isn't just right, you'll drive the fly into the water with a hell of a splash of leader and line and scare the fish. It's a little like skipping a flat pebble with a string attached. I'm always afraid the splash the fly makes as it skips back into the dark spaces will spook whatever is in there.

When making a skip cast, I look for a little vertical channel of air between the branches. This isn't an easy cast because the forward line and leader loop must perfectly match the gap in the foliage or you'll catch one of the branches to either side. The slightest breeze can mean trouble. This cast is best made with a rather open loop so that, if the fly does come in contact with a leaf or branch, chances are it'll dribble down to the surface much like a natural that has lost its grip.
If I can't find an open channel between branches, I'll make a few roll casts toward the center of the stream as I gradually sidestep upstream. I move into a position that will allow me to make an across-and-downstream cast to drift the fly downstream under the willow branches, after I've fished the easier water just under the outside edge of the overhanging brush.


I'm always a little surprised that I occasionally get a few strikes out in the middle of the stream with my roll casts. I can spend two hours fishing no more than twenty feet of stream without getting to the other side, where the big trout hang out. The first hour or two spent doing this is a warm-up for what is ahead. I see it as a chance to try a few patterns, net the water to see what I can find, and check out my casting ability. Some days I cast better than other days. And if there are a few little trout rising in a place like this, isn't it a good idea to try to catch them just in case someday a hog is in there? If I'm successful, I'll have a much better chance of fooling the big fish because I know what to do to get a good drift in a tough spot.

My favorite rod for fishing this kind of water happens to be a 8 1/2-foot bamboo with a 5-weight line. It's a 2-piece rod with a butt section strong enough to turn heavy rainbows in whitewater, yet the upper butt and tip are delicate enough to cast eighteen feet of leader with forty inches of 7X tippet and a size 24 dry fly.  I think that rods shorter than 8 feet have some built-in handicaps for streams wider than ten or twelve feet. Since mending line seems to be essential in almost every fishing situation I encounter, the longer rod allows me to lift more line from the water to toss an up- or downstream loop to extend drifts. A longer rod allows me to keep my backcast above the willows and other bankside brush, and I can lean a cast to either side of my body.

Lean Casts:
What I call a lean cast comes close to being a reach cast, which is usually made across and slightly up- or downstream by sweeping the rod either right or left just after delivering the forward cast and before the fly lands on the water. This action places the fly line up- or downstream of the main current. I like to think of the reach cast as something I do because I can't or am too lazy to move upstream or down two or three steps. It's a great way to extend a drag-free drift.
I use a lean cast when I've already waded way too deep. To get a proper drift I need to stretch my casting arm far to the right or left as I false-cast (no, I can't cast left-handed) in order to lay the fly line in a section of current that won't drag the fly downstream faster than the current where the fly is. This can often happen when I'm fishing almost straight up- or downstream.


Upstream lean casts are a little easier for hooking a rising trout than downstream casts. In downstream casts the leader tends to straighten way too fast and cause drag, or worse yet, the leader straightens just as the fly comes to a riser. When the fish comes up to suck in the fly, the tightness of the leader prevents it from moving. A good way to stop this from happening is to give the rod a little jiggle as the line is still in the air on the forward cast. The jiggle will produce a bunch of shallow S curves in both the line and leader, which will allow me to strip line from the reel and continue to jiggle the rod as the fly comes within striking range of the fish. The challenge I have in this situation is being able to quickly set up when a fish does take the fly because of all the S curves in the fly line. Since the fly can't move until everything is straight, I try to be careful how big the S curves are.

Another situation that might require a lean cast is when you're behind a boulder and wish to present a fly either upstream or down. The current coming around the boulder will create faster currents that fan away from the boulder for some distance downstream. Study these currents carefully and use the lean cast to get your fly and line to land in the middle of the current.
  
Note: This class is baed on excerpts from Fly Fishing with AK a Stackpole Books publication.

Assignments: 

Assignments, practice, practice and practice with a bit of yarn to act as a fly and remember, be patient.

Continue on to class 4221 for more advanced csts.

Extra Credit: 

Read these books by A. K. Best

Fly Fishing with A. K. Best by Stackpole Books

Troutu's First Ebook In The CyberGuide Series

Your rating: None

We're pleased to announce the first product in our CyberGuide trout fishing series -- a new ebook, entitled Small Stream Trout Fishing.  Currently, it is available (without pictures) on Amazon for their Kindle ebook device.  However, we plan to make it available soon on troutu in its entirety, including pictures, in pdf format.  The book, based on our years of experience fishing the small streams of NC and the Smoky Mountains, details the whys and hows of trout fishing small streams, including the slingshot and cane pole techniques.  It's a useful resource for new trout fishermen, as well as those looking for a little tranquility trying to escape the crowded rivers.  Check out the book in our store or here to see the description.

Orvis Helios Fly Fishing Rod Series

Your rating: None

I went to the Orvis Warehouse sale in Charlotte recently, and came away very impressed.  At the sale, Orvis had several of the new Helios rods being displayed for sale purposes. 

The Helios line, is the lightest, strongest and most flexible fly-fishing rod Orvis has ever produced.  These rods offer the latest technology in resins, to reduce the weight. That technology coupled with a new lighter reel seat, makes them the world's lightest fishing rods . The Orvis team spent over two years to develop and perfect the new line.  Here Tom Rosenbauer sheds a little more insight as to who was responsible for that remarkable design. 

Hi Jerry,
I was mainly responsible for the marketing of these rods.  As in all products, everyone in Rod & Tackle including myself our CEO Perk Perkins and vice chairman Dave Perkins and even chairman of the board Leigh Perkins gets heavily involved with product development.  But the people directly responsible for Helios development are:
Steve Hemkens, senior product developer
Andy Stone, rod designer
Frank Hoard, rod designer
Jim Logan, VP manufacturing and head of the rod shop.
Plus a top secret defense contractor but if I told you his name Keifer Sutherland would have a

Trout Fishing Top 5 Tips While on The Stream

1. To test the sharpness of your hook, gently place the point of the hook against your thumb’s fingernail.  Then, gently scrape it down the length of your fingernail.  Do not put additional pressure beyond what is required to keep the point in contact with your fingernail.  If the point leaves a mark, it is sharp enough.  Otherwise, replace or sharpen it.

 2. When your fly/lure is caught in (or on the other side of) deep water, reel your line in until the fishing rod’s tip is touching the lure or hook.  Then, use the rod tip to back the hook out.
 
3. When using a spinning or spincast reel and the lure gets caught, pull tightly on the line, and then quickly flip the bail or hit the button to “slingshot” the lure backwards.
  
4.  When you make an errant cast in water where you were not aiming, do not give up on it, but  “Play your lay” as they say in golf.  Sometimes a trout, especially a brown trout, who is hiding off to the side, or under a rock, etc. will be atracted to the lure.  I must admit that I have cast to the "wrong" location and then be surprised by a hit.  Then there is "plop and drop" for the really bad cast that happen to go over a branch.  Let's admit it, we have all done that, but a trout will sometime even strike your lure as it is coming out of the water as the line is being retrieved or dangled above the water.  Believe it or not some trout want to commit suicide.
 
5. Take care of your line!  If it is fly line, be sure to keep it clean. A properly cleaned line will reduce the amount of friction in the guides, decrease tangling, and improve floatation of the line on the water.  And, best to all, it will preserve your line for a longer life.  If you are using monofiliment, replace the line every year or more often as necessary; and be sure to test the knot often.
 
 

Top Nymphing Tactics to Fly Fish for Trout.

Your rating: None
Class Code: 
303
Syllabus: 

This course is a discussion of a presentation by the National Fly Fishing Champion George Dainel  The course will explore the more advanced tactics of using nymphs with the "dropper" technique.  In the "dropper" technique, the strike indicator is actually a dry fly.  Approximately 25% of the strikes are on a dropper fly and would otherwise be missed without use of the dropper.   The student will learn the importance of weight balance between the nymph and the dry fly.

Course Content: 

While at the recent fly fishing show in Charlotte, NC, I was able to attend a great class given by George Dainel, one of the world's best nymph fishers, entitled Dynamic Nymphing.  George began fly fishing at the tender age of six and went on to become a National Fly Fishing Champion. His talk at the show was a great primer on the basics of nymph fishing, as George focused on efficiency and effectiveness.  Here are a few of the tips George recommended for successful nymphing.

General

  • It is not generally necessary to add weight to the leader; all the weight necessary can be integrated into the fly itself.
  • The key, then, becomes getting and keeping the fly down to the bottom of the stream.  Translation: eliminate any source of drag.

Casting

  • Make short casts when possible, keeping as much (even all) of the line out of the water, to reduce drag.
  • When longer casts are necessary, try to cast directly upstream.
  • Making short casts and casting upstream will almost eliminate the need for mending.  However, when it is necessary to mend, allow the line to slacken a little first, and then perform a "mini roll cast."
  • Cast sharply downward, to get fly down in the water column faster.
  • Position yourself properly to make the best cast.  Don't be too afraid or lazy to get in the best position to cast, even using your weak hand.

Rig

  • George uses a "dropper" technique, meaning his strike indicator is actually a dry fly, from which he has his nymph connected.  The dry fly gives the fish a second opportunity to get hooked, while providing the strike indicator function for the nymph.
  • When the nymph is near the bottom of the stream, it will be in slower moving water than the water at the surface.  This will cause the dry fly to drift slightly more slowly than the current, giving you a visual clue that the nymph is near the bottom of the stream.
  • George balances the weight of the nymph with the buoyancy of the dry fly, such that any little commotion around the nymph will cause the dry fly to submerge.

Leaders

  • Use 9' - 10' leaders
  • Have several leaders with different flies/configurations on hand.  That is, instead of re-tying the rig when you want to make a change, have an entire, separate leader pre-rigged and on a separate spool.
  • Add a portion of colored/highly visible leader material in the middle of the leader to allow you to sense strikes, even when you can't see the flies.

Fly Line

  • Use floating fly line to create less drag.
Assignments: 

Practice this method on several trips to hone your skill with this effective technique.  It may take a little of extra practice to get the cast and the drift procedure correct.

Extra Credit: 

Recommended DVD: Tying Perfect Mayfly Nymphs

Review the work by George at the National Fly Fishing Champion web site and watch for books or videos to come from George.

Top Nymphing Tactics

Your rating: None

While at the recent fly fishing show in Charlotte, NC, I was able to attend a great class given by George Dainel, one of the world's best nymph fishers, entitled Dynamic Nymphing.  George began fly fishing at the tender age of six and went on to become a National Fly Fishing Champion. His talk at the show was a great primer on the basics of nymph fishing, as George focused on efficiency and effectiveness.  Here are a few of the tips George recommended for successful nymphing.

General

  • It is not generally necessary to add weight to the leader; all the weight necessary can be integrated into the fly itself.
  • The key, then, becomes getting and keeping the fly down to the bottom of the stream.  Translation: eliminate any source of drag.

Casting

  • Make short casts when possible, keeping as much (even all) of the line out of the water, to reduce drag. When longer casts are necessary, try to cast directly upstream. Making short casts and casting upstream will almost eliminate the need for mending.  However, when it is necessary to mend, allow the line to slacken a little first, and then perform a "mini roll cast." Cast sharply downward, to get fly down in the water column faster. Position yourself properly to make the best cast.  Don't be too afraid or lazy to get in the best position to cast, even using your weak hand.

Rig

  • George uses a "dropper" technique, meaning his strike indicator is actually a dry fly, from which he has his nymph connected.  The dry fly gives the fish a second opportunity to get hooked, while providing the strike indicator function for the nymph.
  • When the nymph is near the bottom of the stream, it will be in slower moving water than the water at the surface.  This will cause the dry fly to drift slightly more slowly than the current, giving you a visual clue that the nymph is near the bottom of the stream.  George balances the weight of the nymph with the buoyancy of the dry fly, such that any little commotion around the nymph will cause the dry fly to submerge.

Leaders

  • Use 9' - 10' leaders
  • Have several leaders with different flies/configurations on hand.  That is, instead of re-tying the rig when you want to make a change, have an entire, separate leader pre-rigged and on a separate spool. Add a portion of colored/highly visible leader material in the middle of the leader to allow you to sense strikes, even when you can't see the flies.

Fly Line

  • Use floating fly line to create less drag.