This class is brought to you by Dan Farnsworth the consummate Minnesota trout fisherman. Trout fear Dan who brings his valuable winter techniques and tips from Minnesota to this class. While the class is primarily intended for fishing with artficail lures and ultra-lite equipment, the experienced fly fishing angler will find it valuable as well. About Dan.
Course Content:
Winter is my favorite time of year to trout fish for two distinct reasons, it’s not hot, and most people don’t fish in the winter. With that being said, there are many tactics that work the same year round; however there are many considerations that you need to think about before stomping down to the stream in the winter.
Chancellor's note: One of the byproducts of the reduced wintertime fishing pressure is that the larger, warier, trout become more approachable.
Considerations:
Cold. You need to respect cold weather. Wear layers of clothing so you can regulate your temperature during the day. You will also want to pack additional clothing just in case you get wet…like I did on our annual New Years Day trip. And keep your head warm with a comfortable hat. Windproof gear is a huge plus, but it must be able to breathe.
Make sure your gear is working properly and that you don’t have any holes in your waders…again, like I did last week. A right leg soaking wet when it is 25°F takes some of the fun out of the trip, and you have to catch a lot of fish to make up for those types of problems. Don’t forget your polarized glasses on those bright days! If there is snow on the ground and the sun is up, the glare will make these glasses a must. Also, be sure to pack some Chap Stick as well as sunscreen.
If you are hiking into remote areas, keep track of the time and if you are catching fish it is very easy to forget about the time. Remember, the sun goes down much earlier in the winter especially if you are in the woods or in a valley. Even an experienced angler will easily lose track of the time so be prepared by carrying a flashlight; it will come in handy. The newer LED lights that come as a headband are very lightweight and useful.
Make sure you have some fresh water with you and an energy bar just in case. I prefer cheese whiz sandwiches unless my wife makes something special for me the night before, which I may ad to my usual menu. Also, it may be good to include some trail mix for fast energy as you make the trek homeward.
In the winter, watch for slick spots of ice, especially on the shady side of the slope, under tree cover or near streamlets.
Steve can attest to this rule after a nasty little fall last year. You can be sure that the day is much better and more enjoyable when your body stays in one piece.
Equipment:
Felt sole waders are a definite must to wade in the streams. These are excellent on those slick rocks providing the temperatures are not below freezing. If it is below freezing, as long as you’re in the water the felt soles are fine. But when you step out and stand on a rock for a few seconds your soles will freeze to the rock. Carbide studs are good in the winter although they are noisy on the rocks. Strap-on-Vibram® or studded soles work well and they can be purchased from retailers like Cabelas. I have not tried any of the new “sticky” bottom Vibram® soled boots yet but they are indeed promising. Simms makes an interesting high quality, but pricy, new boot with Stream Tread sole technology, There are several others out there that protect aquatic nuisances from transferring from one stream to another. (For more about that topic see "Class 412 Protecting Trout Waters From Aquatic Nuisances") Regardless, felt has always proven to be the best for me on slick rocks.
By all means, do your best to keep your hands warm. Take the time to find the glove that works best for you. There are many different styles on the market today; you just want a pair that is versatile enough to give you the dexterity needed to fish effectively. I rarely wear gloves; I just utilize pockets that allow access to a warm layer underneath my gear. Some anglers prefer to utilize heat packs in their pockets in place of gloves. Good luck in finding the right combination that will work for you.
In the winter I fish with plugs, spinners, and plastic baits. I remove the treble hooks replacing them with single hooks allowing the trout to be released with minimal damage. Don’t be afraid to use large baits. I routinely use #5 and #7 Rapala’s with good success. Brown’s especially like easily targeted, slow, large baits in the winter. Also keep in mind that spinners do work in the winter. If it is clear and sunny I typically lean towards light colored lures. If it is dark or overcast I go towards the darker colors. Regardless, if you are in the South, black and gold is a staple that will not fail you. If you are in the Upper Midwest, silver and black is always good.
The key here is that if you are not catching fish on the lure or tactic you are using, switch to something else. I am not a fan of live bait although it is one of the most effective ways to catching everything. However, live bait tends to be swallowed by the trout making the catch and release much more difficult. Fly fishermen need to select the midges or other insects that may be available for the trout to feast on in the winter. Streamers like the Brown Sculpin in hook sizes of #6 or greater, when fished low and slow, can be as effective for those big browns as the Rapalas. Remember to work them slowly!
Good line on the rod is always essential as well as a fully functioning open face reel. You don’t necessarily need a good bail spring, but hopefully the drag will come in handy. Carry an extra spool of line with you. I also prefer a rod that is under 6’ and typically an ultra-light action. This type of rod allows you to work the Rapala better, twitching it and rolling it through the current producing flashes that attract fish.
Stalking Tactics:
Since there is less foliage in the winter you do not have the advantage of having a good background to help conceal your presence and you will need to stay low and quiet as you stalk the trout. Indeed, some days, snow will make your profile more pronounced, emphasizing the need to remain low. In the winter, the water is typically very clear, making the trout far more wary, so BE QUIET!!! Also, try to be invisible, don’t wear loud colors and move slowly. Don’t stomp up to the stream and just start casting. Slide up to the stream, survey the water to see if there are any visible fish, plan your cast and cast accurately. I had an aged fisherman once tell me that the part that should wear out first on a set of waders is the knees…stay low so you will not cast shadows into the stream.
Slow is our friend! Move slowly and fish slowly trying to keep your lure towards the bottom. Don’t retrieve it faster than the current if possible. Always keep an eye on your lure, if it is too deep keep your eyes focused where you think it is. Many times you will see the flash of a fish, and if you don’t get the hit on that cast you at least know there is an opportunity there for you to go back after it several more times. However, if you still get nothing, switch lures and try again.
On sunny days (well any type of day for that matter) make sure you view the entire stream before walking towards it, particularly shallow spots, eddies, anywhere a trout may be cruising or just suspended. It is amazing what you will see if you are invisible and take your time to be observant. Although fishing with the current with these styles of lures has produced great numbers, don’t be afraid to run your lure against the current, suspending it and allowing it to merely flutter in the current without actually advancing. Follow the lure through the current with your rod tip up, it will control the bait better and give you the flexibility for that big hit.
Focus on structure and current. Look for those rocks, eddies, pools, undercuts, logs, and breaks in the current that will hold fish. You cannot never make too many casts in the winter, and have high expectations for every single cast. Yes, the first cast is many times the one that will show you a fish. However, particularly on large streams, it takes multiple casts just to cover the territory once…and you need to cover it all several times. Be persistent, particularly in those spots that “look like” they would hold fish…because if it looks like it holds a trout, it probably does.
Finally:
It should be noted that some of my best days have come during a nice snowfall. So, if it snows do not hesitate to get into and wade the stream. I don’t know if it has to do with the atmospheric pressure or not, but it has always sparked good opportunities for me. A great byproduct is one of quiet serenity. When the snow if falling in the woods it just seems to quiet everything down making for a more enjoyable time.
Safety is of the utmost importance in the winter and it is a smart idea to always fish with a friend. Winter season brings dangers of a different sort. If you are remote and you get hurt, stranded, lost, whatever, it is much more difficult braving the cold of winter alone. Indeed, it always is good to have a fishing companion along, but how much more so in the winter.
In summary, pack the proper gear, think ahead, and always have a plan. And if you are like me and fish many different streams, just make sure that someone at home knows where you are fishing and when you expect to get home. Now go ahead try winter fishing if you have not already done so and enjoy your day on the stream! Just remember, as always the fish are the bonus!
Video of winter trout fishing.
Assignments:
Be mentally prepared by reviewing these tips and tactics before heading out to the stream. Pay attention to the safety tips as they may be needed.
On small streams especially here in the Smokies, casting room is often at a premium. Many small streams are usually overhung with rhododendrons bushes or other branches. In these situations, the technique called slingshotting can be successfully employed. Upon completion of this course, the student will be able to penetrate the small secluded streams where there is almost no fishing pressure and where the surprisingly large browns often are lurking.
Course Content:
the Great Smoky Mountains National Park has many of those often overlooked small streams capable of sustaining a healthy trout population. The brook trout’s habitat is in these very streams high in the mountains. Also, there are some very nice holes that may harbor some exceptionally wary browns who think that some of the branches will provide security from predators.
In these particular situations, roll casts may be used when there isn’t enough room for a backcast. However, sometimes there isn’t even enough room for a roll cast, and the forward cast may require pinpoint accuracy. This is why we have employed and further developed a technique called slingshotting.
The older anglers native to the Appalachians will always refer to this method of fishing as “Bow and Arrow” fishing. We prefer to call it “Slingshotting” since bow and arrow fly fishing might imply a standing position only. The reason we further developed the process and call it slingshotting is that it is often employed on your knees to get under the very low branches. This is not your father’s fly fishing, but it is very effective.
Slingshotting, as the name implies, uses the spring-like action of the fly rod and line, bow and arrow style, to shoot the fly through the air. While this technique can be used for any type of fly, it is most useful for dry flies. The advantages of slingshotting include accuracy, compact low level casting, and wind-defiance. The distance that can be achieved with this technique is slightly more than double the length of the fly rod, which is a good reason to use a long fly rod. To make a slingshot cast, use the following techniques. Note that you can, of course, reverse which hands and feet you use if you are left handed or if the situation demands it.
Pull a length of line equal to the rod’s length plus about an additional foot past the rod’s tip. For example, if you’re using an 8 foot fly rod, there should be about 9 feet of line extending past the rod’s tip. The exact length of line to achieve the best tensioning in the line will be determined by your arms’ lengths. Also, you will need a short (at least a few inches) of the actual fly line (i.e. not just leader) extending past the end of the rod, to achieve the most favorable casting dynamics.
Place your feet a shoulder’s width apart, with the right foot ahead of the left foot, toward the direction of the cast. If you are kneeling, try to get a comfortable stable position.
Take the fly’s hook in your left hand, being careful to grab the hook from the sides on the bend of the hook. You should pinch the bend of the hook from the sides, using your thumb and index finger. The key here is to make sure that no part of your hand is in front of the point of the hook; otherwise you will feel a severe twinge of pain when you cast. Learned this from experience. Maintain this grip on the hook’s shank until you are ready to make the cast.
Raise the fly rod (reel side down) in your right hand, being sure the fly line and leader are not tangled on the rod. Point the rod in the direction of the cast.
Apply medium tension in the rod and line by extending your right arm in the direction of the cast, and your left hand in the opposite direction. The tension in the rod should not be so great that you can’t hold the rod steady. Keep this tension until you make the cast. You should now look like you’re going to shoot a bow and arrow.
Aim the fly by looking down the rod length as if you were aiming a gun and then make the final corrections in your aiming of the rod, and release the hook from your left hand, being careful not to hook your arms, hands, or clothing after the release. Be aware that the rod will snap forward during the recoil. Do not allow it to hit the water, thereby scaring the trout.
Practice slingshotting, until you can cast accurately and consistently with either hand. Also, work on casting in such a way that the fly lands softly on the water. You may want to tip the rod a bit to employ a bit of sidearm motion to it, such that the fly is not coming straight down onto the water, to avoid making a big splash, or to get underneath some tree branches, etc.
Using this technique, you can actually cast through low hanging tree branches and against the wind. Also, you won’t have to climb the tree behind you to retrieve a fly caught during one of your backcasts.
You have completed Class 104 Basic Knots and now you can improve your knot tying ability. According to a recent article in Field & Stream who tested knots, the J Knot was found to have superior strength. Also, as additional assignment (below) the student can learn how to tie the Davy Knot. After completion of this course, the student will have a greater selectiion of knots in his or her arsnel.
Course Content:
When splicing two fishing lines of similar diameter together, the little known J Knot proved to be stronger than either the Blood Knot or the surgeon's Knot. In fact the J Knot beat all other knots for that purpose according to the Feburary 2009 Issue of Field & Stream.
In the J Knot, unlike the Blood Knot or the Surgeon Knot, the standing line goes straight thru the knot’s initial turns. This feature prevents the monofilament from wrapping tightly around a small radius which may cause heat build up resulting in fracturing. Because of this, it is the best knot for attaching fly fishing leaders to fly lines.
In the illustration below in order to facilitate photographing the knot tying process, I have used blue cord to represent fly line and brown cord to represent the leader.
Tying the J Knot:
Step #1 – Overlap the main line and the leader by at least 12 inches.
Step#2 – Tie a large overhand loop, pulling the leader all the way through.
Step#3 - Hold the loop of the overhand open as you pass the two lines under the bottom and up through the loop.
Step #4 - Then pass the two lines over the top of the loop and back through the loop in a downward direction.
Step #5 – Then take one more turn under the bottom part of the loop and upward through the loop again (Not illustrated) and pull all four lines to tighten the loop.
Step #6 – As with all knots, do not forget to lubricate the line with water or saliva prior to pulling tight and be sure to cut the tag ends correctly.
The Davy Knot is also used for joining and splicing line. It is reported to be a very strong knot, but it is relatively simple to tie. The student can determine what best suites his or her needs. Davy Knot video #1 and video #2.
This class is the foundation of fly casting where the student will learn how to perform the basic casts, and then will be able to move to the more advanced classes on fly fishing.
Course Content:
Basic Fly Casting – Overhead, Roll, And Steeple Casts
The most basic types of fly casting are the overhead and roll casts. The overhead cast is the most straightforward and commonly used cast in fly fishing. The overhead cast is the first choice of cast in waters where there is adequate room for false casting. The roll cast is the second most basic and useful cast, used when there is not room behind the fisher for a backcast. Additionally, the steeple cast is somewhat less used, employed when there are smaller obstructions behind the fisher, such as grass or shrubbery. Below is a series of short videos that explain these basic casts.
Basic Fly Casting Part 1
Basic Fly Casting Part 2
Basic Fly Casting Part 3
Remember, learning to fly cast properly will take some time practicing. It is better to practice ahead of time, so that you will be ready to cast when you get to the stream.
Assignments:
View this video by an Catskill expert on roll cast.
Practice the types of cast in preparation for a trout fishing trip. Study the grip, the location of the thumb, and the movement of the arm. Practice until you are confident that the casts become natural so they can be done without thinking. Be sure to use a piece of yarn as a fly to avoid getting snagged by the hook.
The student will learn about fly line weights, color, buoyancy and taper. After completing this course the student will be equiped to select and assemble the line, backing, leaders, and tippets to the fly fishing rod and reel.
Course Content:
The fly line’s job is to “pull” the fly through the air during the cast. This is the exact opposite scenario as in most types of fishing, where the weight of the lure or bait pulls the line through the air. Therefore, fly line is much heavier and made of different materials than standard monofilament lines.
Fly Rod, Fly Reel, and Fly Line Weight
Fly rod, reel, and line weight selection go hand in hand. The weights of each of these three pieces of equipment should match. That is, choose the rod and reel weights to match the line weight you will be using. To take it a step further, the line weight is determined by the flies you plan to use: the bulkier the fly, the larger the line weight size. For large flies, you may want a 6 weight line; for small dry flies, you may want a 4 weight line. Furthermore, a smaller weight rod will cast with less effort, allowing you a longer day of fishing without fatigue. Therefore, a good compromise, if you’re on a limited budget, is to use a 5 weight fly rod, reel, and line, to match a variety of situations.
Fly Line Taper
Fly line taper refers to the way in which the fly lines diameter changes along the length of the fly line. Typically, fly lines come in 90 foot lengths, and the taper determines how the diameter of the line fluctuates through that 90 feet of line. Below are listed the most common types of tapers:
Level – This type of line has no taper at all; it is the same diameter throughout its entire length. Typically, this is the least expensive, and least useful type of fly line taper.
Double Taper – This type of fly line tapers from a small diameter at each end to a larger diameter toward the center. This type of line taper has the advantage of being symmetrical, and consequently it can be reversed on the fly reel’s spool as one end begins to wear. Additionally, this type of line allows for moderate-length casting and finer presentation (i.e. When the fly hits the water, it creates a smaller impact). It is a good choice of fly line weight for the beginner, or the fly fisher who wants to fish a variety of situations.
Weight Forward – This type of fly line tapers from a small diameter at one end to a large diameter within a relatively short distance from the same end. This allows for longer casts, although the fly’s presentation is adversely impacted. This type of line taper cannot be reversed on the fly reel’s arbor.
Shooting Taper – This is a special type of fly line taper to provide the maximum casting distance. It is rarely used for trout fishing.
Fly Line Buoyancy
Fly line buoyancy is broken down into three main types:
Floating – A floating fly line will float over its entire length. This is the most preferred type of fly line buoyancy by most trout anglers (even for nymphing or using streamers), unless fishing very deep or fast moving water. The line’s floating allows the fisher greater visibility of the line, over its entire length.
Sinking Tip – Sinking tip fly lines have a portion at the end of the line that sinks, while the remainder of the line floats. This is used in faster, deeper water when using wet flies, nymphs, or streamers to get the fly deeper, more quickly. Typically, there is a certain rate at which the tip sinks, allowing the fisher to gage its depth after casting.
Sinking – This type of fly sinks over its entire length. It is similar to using a sinking tip fly line, but it be used to achieve even greater depths, since its entire length sinks.
Fly Line Color
Fly line color has little if any impact on your fishing, beyond making the line visible to you. Pick out a color you like, and go with it.
Fly Line Backing
Typically, the fly line is not connected directly to the reel’s arbor. Rather, a length of (less expensive) line known as backing is attached to the reel’s spool, and the fly line is attached to the backing material. Backing is rarely used (only when a strong fish pulls the entire length of the fly line from the reel) when fighting a fish, and it mostly just takes up space on the reel. Therefore, it is possible to use standard monofilament fishing line as backing, although manufacturers make a special type of line specifically for use as backing. See troutu’s class on knots, for information on what knots to use for connecting the backing to the reel’s arbor and fly line.
Fly Fishing Equipment – Leaders & Tippet
Because fly line is much heavier and more visible than standard monofilament lines used more generally in fishing, a section of monofilament, known as the leader, is attached to the end of the fly line. This leader material is similar in appearance to standard fishing line, but it is much stiffer than standard line, allowing the leader to extend fully when cast.
The end of the leader is known as the tippet. It is basically a part of the leader, and if you purchase, rather than make your own, leaders, the tippet will be included as part of the leader. Fly fishers usually carry spools of tippet material (down to 7X, or 0.004” diameter), to replace the material that is lost over time due to wear, breakage, or simply repeatedly tying flies on and cutting them off.
Purchased leaders are typically a single piece of monofilament, tapered continuously from larger diameter at the fly line to smaller diameter at the fly. It is possible, however, to purchase/make leaders that are comprised of a series of short lengths of monofilament, in successively smaller diameters. Tapering the leader is important to prevent knotting of the leader during casting. Leaders (including tippet) will usually come in 7’-9’ lengths. Typically, a shorter leader is used in tight fishing conditions, such as on small streams, whereas longer leaders are used in large, open rivers and lakes.
Important Note:
See troutu’s class on knots, for information on what knots to use for connecting the leader to the fly line and tying the tippet to the leader and fly.
Learn about fly rod and reel material and construction and the important correlation between between fly rod weight, fly rod length and the type of reel. Upon completion of this course, the student will feel secure in his ability to determine the equipment necessary to accomplish his objectives.
Course Content:
The fly rod is the fly fisher’s tool to cast, manipulate line on the water to reduce drag, work the fly (in the case of a streamer), set the hook, and fight the fish. Consequently, it is an important part of the fly fisher’s arsenal. Additionally, the rod must be comfortable to use for a full day of fishing. A number of factors go into choosing the right rod, for the best performance and comfort.
Fly Rod Length
The primary factors to consider in determining the ideal rod length are what type of water you’re fishing, the surroundings, and the size of the fish. For small streams, typically you will go with a shorter rod, perhaps 7’ – 8’ long. This is because they tend to have trees and brush surrounding them, reducing casting room, and because they tend to have smaller fish. For larger streams and lakes, you will want a longer rod (8’ – 9’), to fight the wind, make longer casts, and pursuing larger fish. If you’re only going to have one fly rod for a variety of fishing, you probably want to choose one approximately 8’ long.
How To Choose A Fly Rod Length Video
Fly Rod, Fly Reel, and Fly Line Weight
Fly rod,reel, and line weight selection go hand in hand. The weights of each of these three pieces of equipment should match. That is, choose the rod and reel weights to match the line weight you will be using. To take it a step further, the line weight is determined by the flies you plan to use: the bulkier the fly, the larger the line weight size. For large flies, you may want a 6 weight line; for small dry flies, you may want a 4 weight line. Furthermore, a smaller weight rod will cast with less effort, allowing you a longer day of fishing without fatigue. Therefore, a good compromise, if you’re on a limited budget, is to use a 5 weight fly rod, reel, and line, to match a variety of situations.
Finally, for the beginner fly fisher, purchasing a fly rod, reel, and line combo package may be the easiest place to start. In a combo package, all three pieces of equipment are already balanced, and it allows “one stop shopping.”
How To Choose A Fly Rod And Fly Line Weight Video
Fly Rod Material
Most fly rods sold today are graphite. Graphite provides a relatively strong, lightweight, and inexpensive fishing rod. This is a good choice of material for the beginner. Higher end rods may have boron included with the graphite for increased strength. The highest end rods still are made of split bamboo cane, oftentimes custom built, and are legendary for their smooth, effortless casting.
How To Choose A Fly Rod Overview
Fly Reel Material and Construction
The fly fishing reel is a relatively simple piece of equipment; it basically needs to store line and backing. The only other function it has is to provide resistance (drag) when fighting a fish. Finally, the reel should be balanced with the rod and line. Therefore, choosing a fly reel is not overly complicated. Most fly reels are made of aluminum or graphite. While graphite is lighter, and can be less expensive, aluminum is more durable. We recommend a machined (versus cast) aluminum reel, and if you want corrosion resistance, purchase an anodized aluminum reel.
Arbor Size
For trout fishing, a reel with a large arbor size is preferred. The larger arbor provides a couple of benefits:
It reduces line kinking. After fly line has been on a reel for some time, it tends to kink, based on the small radius of the reel’s arbor.
For each turn of the reel’s handle, more fly line will be reeled in, assisting with line control.
However, it is possible to achieve the above benefits on a fly reel with a smaller arbor, by simply adding more backing to the arbor. This additional backing will also be of value if you find yourself pursuing larger quarry, such as salmon.
Action
Most trout fishers will prefer the use of a single action fly reel. This is the basic type of reel. Other types, such as reels with additional gearing and automatic line retrieval provide some bling, but are considered overkill.
Drag
The reel’s drag assists with tiring large fish once hooked. It applies continuous pressure on the line, and consequently the fish, as long as the fish is attempting to swim away from the fisher. The economical, old fashioned spring and pawl system works fine for providing drag, though newer technology braking systems exist to provide more consistent drag on the fish. One other note about drag: it is common for fly fishers to apply pressure with the palm of their hand to, or “palm”, the moving rim of the reel’s spool to provide additional drag. If you anticipate using this technique, be sure the reel’s construction allows you to do this, and that the reel is comfortable in your hand.
One final note is that typically a fly reel is reversible, to accommodate using either the left hand or the right hand during the retrieve. However, this should be verified, if necessary, prior to purchasing a reel.
Assignments:
The student should now review more information on rods and reels to gain familiarity:
In Class 115, the student learned about different types of casting accuracy (distance accuracy vs. left and right accuracy), as well as some of the fishing situations that demand them. In this class, the student will learn some of the mechanical techniques that contribute to accuracy. Upon completion of this class, the student should be able to fine tune his casting, and with practice, expect to experience an improvement in the ratio of strikes per 100 casts.
Course Content:
The Author with Joan Wulff and Mell Krieger casting at San Francisco's famed Golden Gate Casting Club in 1986.
In order for the fly to land on target, the unrolling loop of fly line and leader must carry it there. Since the path of the loop follows the path of the rod tip, the key element in achieving casting accuracy is to drive the rod tip on a line pointed at the target. I teach this to students by getting them to look at the target and make an overhead cast (at least on the forward stroke) down their line of sight. This may seem very basic, but many of the accuracy problems I see on the stream result from excessively sidearm casting motions. Many self-taught casters learn by trial and error to minimize the effects of tailing loops by canting the rod to the side. Canting the rod doesn't cure tailing loops, but it does keep the line and leader from tangling, since the crossed loops unroll alongside (rather than on top of) one another. With enough practice, a sidearm caster can achieve accuracy, but a sidearm approach fails to take advantage of the natural accuracy that comes from casting directly down one's line of sight.
Joan Wulff, in her excellent book Fly-Casting Accuracy (The Lyons Press, 1997, 96 pages), uses the term "eye/target line" to refer to line of sight and "hand/target line" as the path the caster's hand takes to drive the rod tip toward the target. On short casts, where the casting stoke is short and the casting arc narrow, the caster can keep his hand in front of his head (and eyes), and these two lines coincide. On longer casts, where a longer stoke is required, the range of motion of the caster's hand and arm will move to the side, in front of or alongside the shoulder. As the eye/target line and hand/target line become separated, an "accuracy triangle" is created, with these two imaginary lines meeting at the target.
While this is an insightful conceptualization of the components of accuracy, my own experience in teaching casting is that many students — especially beginners and intermediates — fail to control the connection between the hand/target line and the path of rod tip during the casting stroke. Obviously, these two paths are connected, but for many casters, lack of control of angles (and muscles) at the hand, wrist, and elbow means that they can move their hand toward the target without being able to drive the rod tip (and line, leader, and fly) in exactly the same direction.
In my view, this is a general failing of much casting instruction: we try to teach mechanics (stance, grip, angles of wrist and elbow, size of the casting arc, etc.) to students who don't understand their relationship to the path of the rod tip — and ultimately, what really matters — control of the casting loop. Students are sure they are going through the right motions, but the line still refuses to go where it is supposed to. I find that many casters achieve greater accuracy and control by visualizing the path of the rod tip itself, adjusting hand and arm position as necessary to drive the tip down one's line of sight. In other words, I make the rod tip path the primary focus of instruction and the hand/target line secondary.
In many small creek situations, where smaller water and a careful approach allow shorter presentations, accuracy is simpler because the casting motion can be made in front of the body, and (as noted above) the caster's line of sight, the hand/target line, and path of the rod tip can all be lined up in the same vertical plane. If the caster separates the plane of the back cast and forward cast, he should make the back cast slightly sidearm and bring the forward cast right down the line of sight for better accuracy. On longer casts, longer strokes may require a greater separation of backcast and forward cast planes (in Wulff's terms, the legs of the accuracy triangle are moved farther apart), and a more dramatic repositioning at the end of the backcast stroke will be required. The principle remains the same, however — make the sidearm motion on the backcast and bring the rod tip back over the line of sight on the forward cast.
Although short presentations minimize the horizontal parallax between line of sight and the path of the rod tip (i.e., there is little separation between these lines), vertical parallax is increased, since the casting arc (and the rod tip path that creates it) must be tilted steeply downward to reach a nearby target. Note that this parallax is increased even more with longer rods. I refused to believe Tom Morgan's advice for years, but I now agree that shorter rods are more accurate for short range fishing. Although I still prefer an 8 1/2 foot rod as an all around fly fishing rod (and a 9 footer on big tailwaters like the Missouri or Bighorn), I find a 7 foot rod to be ideal for small mountain streams or tiny creeks. The advantages of short rods repeated in dozens of angling texts — more portability when hiking through brush and easier false casting under overhanging branches—are valid, but they are not nearly as important as the accuracy afforded by moving the path of the rod tip closer to the caster's line of sight.
Practice, of course, is the key to achieving consistent accuracy. One way to do this is to incorporate targets into at least part of every practice session. Paper plates weighted with a rock work fine, and fluorescent tennis balls can be tossed to a variety of positions on the lawn. In many cases, there are plenty of natural targets to choose from: a dandelion blossom, a fallen leaf, a bit of foam or floating weed on a pond. To practice "left and right" accuracy, try casting along a straight line target, like the edge of a sidewalk, the sideline of a football field, or a garden hose stretched across a lawn. Be sure to add a piece of brightly colored yarn to the end of the leader for practice sessions. The line and leader will turn over more realistically, and the yarn will allow the caster to check accuracy on each presentation.
Joan Wulff's "pick a leaf" practice is another excellent way to hone accuracy skills. For this practice, Wulff recommends picking a small target, like an individual leaf in a hedge, and trying to touch the target with the practice fly, working in various casting planes, both forehand and backhand, and at various distances. One of the keys to this practice is to concentrate on a pinpoint target.
The ultimate goal for the angler is to reach the point where accuracy is fully integrated with other casting skills, where there is no thought about casting mechanics, no consideration of the line of sight or rod tip path or casting arcs. The angler simply looks at the target, makes the cast, and the fly lands exactly where it is aimed. This requires practice, but the practice has rewards: casting accuracy not only catches a lot of fish, it is one of the most satisfying parts of the fly caster's game.
Assignments:
To further improve your casting ability, execute the methods of practice explained in class. This is a difficult class and the student will need the practice. Remember to use yarn to prevent injury.
The best fly pattern in the world will not catch fish, if the trout do not see it. This class will detail the methods and techniques required to target the trout; and deliver the fly into the target range. After completion of this class, the student can expect to understand the rudiments of accurate casting. Professor: Brant Oswald
Course Content:
IN DIFFICULT FISHING SITUATIONS on spring creeks and tailwaters, anglers often pin their hopes for success on a fly box full of imitative patterns and advanced presentation skills like stack mending and curve casting. This makes sense, since the ability to match the hatch and present the fly with minimal drag are often what separates this "technical" fishing from other stream fishing for trout. Unfortunately, many anglers forget that these advanced techniques should be an overlay on more fundamental skills, and not a replacement for them.
A friend, Chad McCormick, once related an anecdote to me that serves as a perfect illustration of this attitude. Chad was fishing the lower Bighorn with fly shop owner George Anderson a few seasons back, and it was Bighorn fishing at its best: little yellow stoneflies were skittering all over the surface, and the fish were keyed into both hatching insects and returning egg layers. With lots of bugs and lots of rising fish, if the angler put the fly on target, the result was a hookup with another 15 to 20 inch fish.
At least that's how it worked for George and Chad. They noticed another angler fishing the riffle just upstream, making cast after cast, changing flies frequently, conspicuous because he wasn't catching a thing. All the while, he was forced to watch the anglers below him hook and land and release a considerable pile of fish.
Finally, after several more fly changes, this fisherman couldn't stand it any more. "What are you guys catchin' 'em on?", he yelled.
Amusing because it contains an insight into a typical human foible when it comes to fishing skills (and a lot of other things, for that matter). Rather than work on perfecting our own abilities, we tend to look for a magic fly pattern (or invisible tippet material, perfect fly rod design, etc.) to catch fish for us. Unfortunately, that approach doesn't work. The best fly pattern in the world won't catch fish if the fish doesn't see it. Casting accuracy is a basic component of all presentations, but in tailwater and spring creek situations, it is often critical. With lots of naturals on the water, the fish will not move far for a meal, and inaccurate casts won't even garner a feeding fish's attention. On the other hand, even a badly tied or oversized fly will catch some fish if it is presented precisely in the fish's feeding lane.
So what is involved in making an accurate cast? Gary Borger provides a useful delineation of the components of accuracy in his book Presentation(Streamworks, 1995, 319 pages): there is distance accuracy, which involves casting the correct amount of line (i. e., not casting beyond or short of the target), left and right accuracy, and pinpoint accuracy, which is a combination of the two. Separating distance from alignment is a valuable insight, because these different types of accuracy are often required in different fishing situations, and they are achieved by different parts of the casting stroke. In this column, I will discuss some of the fishing concepts involved in accuracy; in the next issue, I will take up the the techniques and casting mechanics of accuracy.
Casting itself is only part of the key to accurate presentations. A precursor to accuracy is the angler's ability to recognize the target, which in turn requires the ability to read water and the ability to see well. In situations where a fish is not visible, it is sometimes useful to cover all of the water methodically, but in most cases, the range of targets is narrowed down by reading water. These scenarios usually involve distance accuracy—the angler identifies a current line that determines a fish's lie, and a cast is made to reach that target distance. (Other situations that involve mostly distance accuracy include casting to bank lies from a drift boat or casting to the edge of a weed line in bass fishing or stillwater trout fishing.)
In other cases, the angler will rely directly on vision to determine the casting target. In spring creeks and tailwaters, this can be as straightforward as stalking and casting to a visible fish. Careful observation will also allow the angler to identify casting targets in other ways: spotting the shadow of a fish, noticing the subtle riseform of a bulging fish or the flash of a nymphing fish as it turns under the surface of the water. Once the fish or its lie can be determined precisely, alignment accuracy must be added to the equation. This "left or right" accuracy is what allows the angler to place the fly in a position where it will drift naturally into the fish's range of vision. If the cast is made too far to the downstream side, the fish won't see the fly (or won't have time to take the fly in its normal feeding rhythm). More often, I see anglers make the opposite mistake—they lead the fish way too far to the upstream side, and by the time the fly gets to the fish, it has drifted laterally out of the fish's feeding lane. In heavy hatch situations, it is easy to get excited by the sight of a pod of big fish feeding in a small area, but accuracy requires that the angler pick an individual target. Flock shooting is as ineffective for the flyfisher as it is for the wingshooter.
Accuracy is also dependent on the angler's ability to see the fly as well as the target, as the angler needs to see whether the fly is landing in the correct position. One of the keys to spotting the fly (and distance accuracy in general) is to know the length of the leader, so the angler's eye can move to the approximate landing zone of the fly. In flat light, it can be difficult to see a small spring creek pattern, and in windy conditions, the tippet and fly may be blown well away from the intended target. If the angler can't spot the fly at all, there is no way to correct errors in fly placement and there is little chance for success. There is nothing more frustrating than straining to see the fly and then realizing—always a second too late—that the last rise was to your fly, which was several feet away from where you thought it was. In these situations, I recommend changing to a more visible fly (like a parachute style or a "hi-vis" pattern), even if it is less imitative.
If the angler is presenting the fly with a reach cast, another effective ploy in bad light or windy conditions is to hold the reach upstream until the fly begins to skate. The waking fly is easy to see, and the fly can be steered into the right line of current, at which point the rod tip can be dropped to allow the fly to drift naturally to the fish. This intentional drag requires a fly that doesn't drown easily—a Sparkle Dun or parachute style emerger is my personal choice for this technique.
Accuracy is one of the keys to effective fly presentation, but remember that there is more to accuracy than just casting. Identifying the target and seeing the fly are crucial elements, but planning one's approach is important as well. If the angler knows a long (and accurate) cast is beyond his abilities, it may be possible to wade closer. If the angles of wind and current make a particular cast difficult, reconsider the situation and try a different casting angle. Most importantly, careful observation of the situation should allow the angler to make an accurate presentation on the very first cast, which is the one most likely to take a fish.
Assignments:
Practice your casting as often as possible, using a piece of yarn as a fly to prevent injury.
Winter is my favorite time of year to trout fish for two distinct reasons, it’s not hot, and most people don’t fish in the winter. With that being said, there are many tactics that work the same year round; however there are many considerations that you need to think about before stomping down to the stream in the winter.
The older anglers native to the 
Practice slingshotting, until you can cast accurately and consistently with either hand. Also, work on casting in such a way that the fly lands softly on the water. You may want to tip the rod a bit to employ a bit of sidearm motion to it, such that the fly is not coming straight down onto the water, to avoid making a big splash, or to get underneath some tree branches, etc.
where smaller water and a careful approach allow shorter presentations, accuracy is simpler because the casting motion can be made in front of the body, and (as noted above) the caster's line of sight, the hand/target line, and path of the rod tip can all be lined up in the same vertical plane. If the caster separates the plane of the back cast and forward cast, he should make the back cast slightly sidearm and bring the forward cast right down the line of sight for better accuracy. On longer casts, longer strokes may require a greater separation of backcast and forward cast planes (in Wulff's terms, the legs of the accuracy triangle are moved farther apart), and a more dramatic repositioning at the end of the backcast stroke will be required. The principle remains the same, however — make the sidearm motion on the backcast and bring the rod tip back over the line of sight on the forward cast.
were skittering all over the surface, and the fish were keyed into both hatching insects and returning egg layers. With lots of bugs and lots of rising fish, if the angler put the fly on target, the result was a hookup with another 15 to 20 inch fish.