Beginner

The diagram below demonstrates just how easy it is to remove a hook. Here are some important tips that will make it easy and believe me it is easier than it looks. First have the person with the hook in their hand press down on the hook eye and toward the hook until it is tight against the skin. This is the most important step and often not done correctly as Duane demonstrates (unwillingly) in the second video below.

Notice in the diagram below that by placing the pressure toward the hook, as well as downward, causes the barb to be slanted downward. This effort will help the barb to retrace the path made by the hook's entrance in the skin.

Next, JERK HARD! Don't just give it a light tug as that will cause additional pain. Remember how it is to remove the baby teeth from children; a firm tug is better than one or more soft tugs.

 This first video shows the simple correct procedure to remove the embedded hook.

This video demonstrates that even a Rapalla hook can be removed and it also demonstrates what not to do.

First why practice Catch and Release?  We have the ability to kill or not to kill a trout when we catch it. There is nothing wrong to keep a fish for the table once in awhile.  But, when fishing in high pressured areas where you know a number of other anglers will be fishing, it is good to recycle the trout for other anglers to enjoy catching.  Also, sometimes it is the law such as the case with delayed harvest regulations. If you decide to keep any of the trout that you catch, it is better to keep the stocked trout leaving the wild trout to reproduce.  Remember it only takes a few spawning fish to restock a stream in two or three years.

 Studies have shown that the survival rate for C&R when done properly is between 95% and 99%, (depending on which study you see) so you need not feel guilty about catching and releasing the trout.  We will now start learning how we can achieve the upper range of that study.

Where you fish is important if you intend to C&R.  You should start by choosing a stream that is clear.  Sediment will hamper the fish to “breath” after it is caught.  Also, the trout need oxygenated water to live and that is especially important when the trout is stressed after being caught.  Stress will increase the lactic acid level in the trout’s muscles which will cause the trout to tire easily.  Therefore, do not practice C&R when the water temperature is above 70 or 72 degrees maximum as the survival rate will be impaired.  Fish caught in moderate water or slow water is more prone to survive than those caught in swift water.

The next thing to consider is the tackle.  Always use a single hook fly or lure, and a barbless hook is preferred for reasons that we will discuss later in the class.  When using a tippet, use the strongest possible and still be able to fool the trout.  Do not use a 7X tippet especially in high water.  The correct tippet will permit a fast retrieve of the fish without excessive playing of the fish.  Always keep the drag set properly to avoid breaking the line and to avoid the necessity of playing the trout too long.

How you play the fish is important.  Obviously, you will want to land the trout as quickly as possible avoiding the over stressed condition.  Do not increase the playing time for the purpose of photographing the event.  Steer the fish toward an area of clear water, not muddy water or water clouded with sediment that has been stirred up by your boots.  Gently running clear shallow water without rocks that can damage the trout is preferred. Finally use a knot-less landing net whenever possible.

When handling the trout, squeeze the trout just ahead of the tail while holding it upside down with pressure applied from the top to the bottom of the trout. This pressure will mesmerize the trout as long as it is not applied from side to side.  It is best to keep the trout out of the water as little as possible.  Using the barbless hook will allow the trout to shake off the hook without the angler touching the trout.  Often times, the hook can be backed out of the trout’s mouth without the trout ever coming out of the water.  The best approach to handling the trout is to keep it in the water as much as possible.  The air pressure is different than the water pressure that it is accustomed to, so time out of the water can damage the internal organs of the trout.

If you must take the trout out of the water, be sure to wet your hands before you touch the trout.  This will protect the slimy mucus membrane on the trout. This membrane is important to protect the trout from fungal or bacterial infections.  Always, have forceps or needle nose pliers handy to retrieve the hook if it deeper into the trout’s mouth.  Also, they can be used to remove two of the treble hooks and to flatten the barbs on hooks.

Returning a trout to the water is important.  Place it gently into the water facing upstream and gently move it back and forth all the while keeping it facing upstream.  This will get the water circulating in the gills and will provide the trout with much needed oxygen.  At this point, they will usually scoot away in a hurry looking for a cool place to rest such as a large rock.  If the fish is not active and tends to go “belly up” or turns on it’s side or sinks to the bottom, do not despair.  Just grab the fish gently and move it back and forth some more or poke it gently with your rod tip or with the handle of the net.  A slight motion will normally “jump start” the trout into normal activity.

Photographing the fish is something that we all want to do so be careful how you go about it.  Decide if you want to take a picture while you are still playing the fish and plan the shot while you are still playing the trout. Have a buddy handy with the camera and be sure that the buddy is familiar with the camera.  Do not expect that buddy to learn the camera while the fish is out of the water. 

Next, consider the pose.  It is best to take a picture with the fish half out of the water being cradled by the angler.  It offers a pleasant natural setting and makes it easier on the trout.  It is a good idea to turn on the fill flash and take several rapid pictures so you can choose the best one later.  If the picture takes too long, place the trout in the water to be refreshed before commencing.  The classic hero shot with the head up and the tail down is a good way to injure the internal organs and to increase the mortality rate.

These may seem like too many directions to remember, however, with practice, they quickly become second nature to the angler.

Trout fishing can be as economical or as expensive as you care to make it.  It can be easily tailored to any budget.  If you care to spend less than $20 for equipment or as much as several thousand, it can be accomplished.  Here is a list of the most economical items in a package, which is ideal for a child, or even an adult, to get to enjoy the pleasure of fooling the trout.  The package consists of:

3 piece cane pole with line: $5.00.

Handful of assorted dry flies: $7.00.

Cheez-Whiz sandwhich: $1.00.

Beating the recession by going trout fishing on a budget: Priceless.

Recession got you down?  The best entertainment during a recession is, of course, trout fishing.  First, there is the need to get your mind off of your frustations.  Nothing like the rushing water on a stream to accomplish that.  Second, there is the fact that trout are one of the few things that don't worry about the economy.  They don't stop feeding just because the stock market is sputtering.  Third, you don't have to spend gobs of money to get started.  Here are some tips for trout fishing on a budget:

Use inexpensive equipment:  The first choice is to borrow someone else's equipment.  A lot of people have old equipment they're not using anymore, and you may be able to borrow it.  If you choose to borrow a spin cast rod and reel combo, then you can purchase a few hooks and bait or a couple of spinners, and you're good to go.  However, you need not buy the bait or the spinners, if you choose to use live bait. (Dig up some worms or collect some hellgramites.)

The least expensive equipment to purchase is a cane pole, usually costing around $5.00.  You will only need a few feet of standard monofilament on the end of it, a dry fly attached to the end of the line, and a small stream with large rocks to hide behind.  Hide behind the rocks and dangle the fly just over top of the water, letting it land on the water and float downstream.  The fly can be dangled above the water as well, in a figure eight motions, and the trouf will jump as high as he can to get it.  Sometimes it will take him more than one try!

It's possible to use old tennis shoes (or sneakers, depending on what area of the country you're from) and shorts, in lieu of wading boots and waders.  However, either glue carpet on the bottom of the shoes or be prepared to get wet by falling in to the cool refreshing mountain water.   Athletic footwear has nowhere near the gripping power as felt soled boots (which are falling out of favor because of their abilty to spread unwanted organisms among trout streams).

You can make due without a fishing vest by wearing shorts with numerous zippered or buttoned pockets.  For years, my Dad has even used a free, promotional carpenter's apron he got from a hardware store.  It can be spray painted in your favorite camo colors. (Insider tip: make sure your small plastic tackle box, your nail clippers and your needle nose pliers are tied to the apron if you're prone to falling in the stream.)

Pack a lunch, consisting of a piece of fruit, crackers, and a sandwhich.  One of troutu's staff even brings Cheez Whiz

 sandwhiches.  Can you say "Low Budget?"  Bring a bottle of water  (or two) to wash it all down.

Find a couple of fishing buddies to carpool with, to share the gas, and you're good to go and remember to always have a license, and practice safety and catch and release as well! 

We, Steve and Jerry,have fished the mountain streams together for many years and quite often the streams would be under a canopy of rhodendron branches, or other obstacles, that made it extremely difficult to spot the trout.  Below is a description of a method for locating the trout and coaxing them into hitting a fly.

 As we approached a stream with cascading pools, we would alternate by assigning a pool to the fly fishing technique or we would assign the pool to the spinner fishing technique. However, If we observed a trout near the end of the pool we would assign that pool to the fly fisher. When no trout was observed, whoever had that assigned pool, either fly fisher or spinner fisher, would utilize the blind fishing approach. We would search the water by simply blind casting the dry flies, such as terrestrials. over the water hoping to get a hit. The first few casts would be to the tail of the pool. ( Usually brook trout could be found there.) If those casts did not yield a hit the next series of casts would be toward the bank or shady spot in the pool, hoping to get a hit possibly from a brown trout lying there waiting to ambush some food. The next casts would be to the rapid highly oxygenated head water at the pool inlet, where we might expect to find a rainbow trout. The flies necessarily had to just happen to land ahead of the trout and not too far to the right or to the left. When blind fishing the odds of that happening can not be expected to be high so this method often proved to be unproductive.

The spinner fisherman, using in-line spinners such as Rooster Tails or Mepps, would use the same approach of blind fishing. The trout would often follow the spinner to the outflow of the pool, but would not hit it. A second and a third attempt for the same trout would often result in less interest with each subsequent cast. After a series of casts the trout would be sufficiently spooked and "headed for Dixie".

We quickly realized what was happening and decided that perhaps a team approach would be more productive. Now, when we approach a pool and do not observe any trout we both work that pool. First, the in-line spinner fisherman will cast his lure into the headwaters at the front of the pool. Quite often there would be a rainbow trout lying there enjoying the highly oxygenated waters, and waiting for the current to bring it a morsel of food such as a minnow. If the spinner appears to satisfy that desire we would have a trout on the line. However, if that cast was not sucessful the trout would follow the spinner and he might hit it before it could be reeled in completely. Now, more importantly, if the trout follows the spinner but does not hit the trout will leisurely head back up the pool, conserving energy and not wanting to risk any more energy in chasing that particular morsel. But, since the trout is now somewhat frusterated he can be coerced into getting a smaller meal with much less energy expended

 Since the trout was moving our eyes have become focused on the trout and the trout can be seen easily. A trout that can be seen is, indeed, a vulnerable trout and can be caught with a dry fly. At this point the fly fisherman is ready to launch his dry fly to an area just ahead of and above the bewildered trout and this is a high percentage cast!
In the event that there was not a trout in the head waters that was interested, as the in-line spinner continues down the pool, it will cause more commotion in the water and it will attract trout, from a farther distance to seek it out. Trout lying along the banks will often catch up with the spinner and hit it. If they do not hit the spinner, at least the trout has been lured out into the open and now can be easy prey for the dry fly.
Since we have adopted the double team approach to fishing the smaller pools found in the Southeast we have improved our catch rate and we have continued to enjoy the fellowship of each other.

Generally, it is advisable to walk and cast upstream while fishing.  This prevents the fish from seeing you as you approach.  Also, keep a low profile and stay out of the water (especially still water) as much as possible.  As you approach a pool from downstream, cast first to the tail end of the pool right where the water begins to accelerate as it leaves the pool. 

Remember to keep the line tight by reeling in the excess line, and do not let there be any noticeable slack in the line.  This will enable you to feel the slight tug as a trout takes the bait.  Sometimes, you will see the line moving in a manner that obviously in not as a result of the current, and this is an indication that the trout has gingerly sucked in the bait. 

Often times, there is a trout (most commonly a brown or brook trout) hanging out in this area, and otherwise you may scare it before you even know it’s there.  However, there are times when fishing upstream is not an option.  When this occurs, it is possible to cast downstream.  Watch this video for the technique.

Next, cast to the still water off to the sides of the pool, if applicable.  Then, cast toward the head of the pool, in the vicinity of the swift water entering the pool.  Finally, don’t overlook small “tidal pools”, pocket water (non-pooling water), downed trees, and crevices under rocks as hiding places for trout (especially brown trout). 

When using fly line in a stream, try to keep as much of the line out of the water as possible, to avoid the effects of drag on the line.  For example, if your fly lands in still water, and your fly line lands in fast water, the line will be moving faster than the fly to the extent that it will eventually pull the fly through the still water. 

When trout fishing in a lake, beaware of the most important areas which are the inlet, the outlet, streams dumping into the lake and the underwater springs.  All have an impact on the flow of food being delivered to the feeding trout as well as the temperature.  Generally, springs and water flowing into the lake will be cooler and moving.  Therefore, that water will be more oxygenated have a positive effect on the feeding habits of the trout. 

Sunlight will be a factor as it contributes to the growth of trout food.  Watch for overhanging branches tha allow terrestrials to fall into the water, as these will be more productive areas.  Do not overlook lakes caused by the dams that are used for generating electricity.  These lakes usually are deep and the water can be drawn off the bottom (tailwaters). Therefore, the water will be cooler and support trout in areas where it normally would be too hot for the trout to exist.  Watch the most popular DVD about tailwater fishing for trout.

Once a fish strikes, set the hook by quickly pulling up on the fishing rod.  This will drive the hook into the fish’s mouth.  Be careful not to pull too hard when a small fish strikes, or you can damage the fins.