Fly Fishing

Winter Fly Fishing Tips

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Winter Fishing Tips:
Just because you are cold don’t assume that the trout are cold and not feeding. Many of us have caught hundreds of trout in the mounatins of North Carolin and Tennessee when the water was between 45 degrees and 50 degrees and even when it was below 45 degrees! Of course you will need to slow down your presentations, and have confidence expecting to catch fish. I can not stress enough that the winter fishing required slowness and stealth!

However, if you are planning to use a dry fly in fast moving water the way you would do in warm weather, you will probably not have a good day. You will need good imitations of nymphs fished correctly to overcome the slower, clearer water conditions and the slower metabolism of the trout. Under the right conditions and the right degree of stealth you can have some very productive days in the winter. There are fewer hatches in the winter but despite that, there are more nymphs and larvae in the water than any other time of the year.

During the winter months, the Blue Winged Olives, and the Midges will be the most likely hatches that you will see. Occasionally, there will be hatches of the Little Black Winter Stoneflies on the warmer days. However, the major insect activity will be a result of the Midge hatches. Be sure to not key on the hatch itself but be prepared to fish the nymphs before the hatch. Check out Class 3021 “Correctly Matching the Hatch” for some tips about hatches.

Try using midges or try to match some of the naturals that you see in red, black, gray and cream colors and think small in the area of size #20 through #24 hooks. Again we will stress that Midges are by far the fly of choise for all purposes in the winter. The leader tippet combination should be about 10 feet or more. Fish the lightest and longest leader that you can be comfortable with, perhaps a 7x leader, to make the leader and tippet combo equal to 10 feet at a minimum.  Use a longer rod, especially in the larger waters as it will allow you to achieve a drag free drift and you will get longer casts in the open runs.

It will always be necessary to weight the nymph with split shot in order to get to the bottom especially in the deeper fast moving water. Remember the trout will stay lower or on the bottom since that is where they expect the food to be. Also, with the slow metabolism brought on by the colder water, the trout will not move far to take the fly.

Cast upstream slightly across and quickly mend the line. As the fly begins to head down stream raise the rod holding the tip of the rod high above the fly keeping the fly line out of the water. Get the fly to drift in a natural manner and not be dragged along by the fast current near the surface. Keep the fly line upstream behind the fly throughout the drift. This will keep the line tight so that you can feel the trout strike.

The Czech method of nymphing often referred to as the "high stickin" method provides an alternative method to get your fly down into deeper water or pockets where trout may be hiding. This method eliminates the impact of the drag caused by faster moving water on or near the surface pulling the fly line.

For tips on how to use a strike indicator and the dropper technique for nymphing go to Top Nymphing Tactics from George Dainel, the National Fly Fishing Champion .

Note: The pictures above are trout caught on the Davidson River, North Carolina in December by Ralph McClellan Jr. from Mountain Fly Fishing Adventures in Spruce Pine, NC.

Prospecting for Trout II

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Class Code: 
3677
Syllabus: 

In this class the student will learn how the habitat differs for the various species as well as what other factors are involved in finding trout; such factors as suspended oxygen and temperatures.

Course Content: 
 
Rainbows In Open Water
Rainbows will usually be found in more open water, whether it's riffly like this or slow and smooth. Brown trout have even been known to burrow in gravel when frightened, but the behavior of frightened rainbows betrays their lack of concern with overhead cover. Rainbows, when spooked, usually head en masse to the deepest part of a pool, and when you walk by you can observe what biologists call "fright huddles" — groups of rainbows all packed together, fins trembling. You never see browns mixed in with them because all the browns have headed to the bank with its more substantial cover. Brook trout seem to use cover less than browns but more than rainbows, so you will more often find them farther from cover and from the bank than browns. Where cutthroats and brook trout are found together, biologists have seen more use of cover by the brook trout. So if you know a river contains only brown trout, spend more time casting tight to the banks than out in the middle. If it holds only rainbows, bless their hearts, you can concentrate on the easier places in the middle of the river. But don't ever completely ignore the banks. The middle of the Railroad Ranch section of Henry's Fork in Idaho is essentially featureless, as most of the water is one long flat without big rocks. The better rainbows are near the banks, possibly because of cover, but more likely because the current along the banks is reduced enough to form areas of slower water with access to the food carried by the current.

 

How the Setting Can Change

Even in the same stream at the same time of year, you cannot approach the tail of a pool with the casual tactics that might work in a riffle.

Four minutes from where I sit in an office eight hours a day is a tiny stream that is my laboratory, escape valve, and forty-five-minute retreat. I can fish three or four pools on my lunch hour. In one favorite half-mile stretch I know virtually every fish except the unseen brown trout that I suspect inhabit a couple of deep undercut banks at the base of streamside maples. I have never caught one of these elusive browns, but I imagine them sulking in a tangle of drowned roots, oblivious to my flies but capable of eating a six-inch brook trout followed by a three-day fast. At the beginning of each season I mark a couple of gullible brook trout by clipping their adipose fins so I can follow their progress through the season. If I can figure out where they are living, I can almost always catch them. In early spring they are in the deeper, slower pools, and to catch them you need a large nymph fished close to the bottom, with no drag at all. As water temperatures rise above 55 degrees and flies start to hatch, they will be pulled from the pools into shallow riffles. Now a dry fly will work, as will a wet fly or nymph that swings across the current. As water levels fall during the summer, they can be hard to find, and whenever I fail to catch one that has been in the same spot for a couple of months, I start to imagine my brookie in an aluminum­foil coffin in somebody's freezer, or in the belly of a heron or otter. With the lower water levels it's also likely that there are fewer places in this little stream that can hold trout, and my friends were pushed downstream by more aggressive trout. In summer most of the trout are concentrated in only the deepest holes and in the heads of pools — it may be a hundred feet between places that hold trout.

During the winter and early in the season trout are more concerned with avoiding anchor ice and floods than they are with eating. There are few insects in the drift for them to capture, and their metabolisms are slowed to the point where they take little advantage of the food that might be available. Shallow water can be scoured by floating ice and anchor ice, which grows from the bottom of the river, so look for trout in deep-water refuges, out of the main current. When there is no ice, though, I have caught them on sunny days in shallow riffles, and because I doubt trout spend the winter in water like this, I suspect they move into places that are warmed by the sun as spring starts to wake up the river. As the water temperature approaches 50 degrees, and insects begin to drift and hatch, the fish migrate to shallow riffles and the heads of pools to take advantage of insect life at its source. You can gauge the migration time by the first major hatch of the season. In the East, if you blind-fish before the Hendrickson hatch, you'll find most trout in the side eddies and backwaters, but as soon as this first big hatch begins, the trout appear in riffles, in tails of pools, and out in the main current. They're still there on days when the flies don't hatch, and early in the morning on days when flies don't hatch until midafternoon.

There they will stay until low water and high temperatures shrink the comfortable places in a stream and concentrate the trout. As habitats contract, trout don't move far, sometimes just from one side of the pool to another, or from the middle to the head. In the tail of a big pool on the lower Battenkill, I found a pod of a half-dozen large brown trout one late spring evening, and I returned a couple of evenings a week to work them over. By the middle of the summer I had caught and released most of them, including a couple that I fin-clipped. A vacation kept me away from them for ten days, and when I returned the places where they had been feeding were almost dry. I couldn't find a single one. One night I happened to look at the other side of the river, which was deeper but had never produced a fish, I guess because this deeper pocket was out of the main current and did not supply enough food. There were several good fish rising there, and sure enough, over the next several weeks I caught some that I had clipped. As I looked carefully at the water, I saw that their new home was deep enough to keep them secure. The current had shifted because of a newly exposed gravel bar, and by the looks of the bubble line coming down through the pool, most of the food was now funneled to the opposite side of the river.

Oxygenated Water
Look for oxygenated water like this in the late season. Margot Page photo.

In the tough late season there are three keys to finding trout: temperature, oxygen, and flow. If you remember them, you will catch trout all day long, even in the noonday heat of August when there is slim chance of any kind of hatch.

Temperature: Look for springs entering the river. Even springs whose surface flow runs dry during the summer usually offer some flow below the dry channel, so a scar of clean rocks along the bank that looks as though it might have been a tributary in early spring may tip you off to some cooler water. In general any entering tributary will be cooler than the main river, so look for trout below the confluence of a smaller and a larger stream. Wade wet to find springs entering the river beneath the streambed.

Oxygen: Water's oxygen content is inversely related to its tem­perature, so if you can't find the cooler water, which holds more oxygen, look for places where oxygen is forced into the water by physical means. Riffles, runs, pocket water, the bases of dams — trout will move to these places in midsummer, often leaving the rest of a pool barren.

Flow: This important factor of midsummer trout fishing is often overlooked. Trout won't live where they can't eat, and during low water their options are limited, making stream reading easier. Especially in slower pools, don't look for trout anywhere but right under the bubble line, because flow is reduced to a point where only the main current offers enough food. If you can't locate the bubble line or it doesn't seem to help, another way of finding trout is to look at the stones on the bottom. Once when I was fishing a stream known for its wild rainbows, I was in a wide riffle that holds scores of trout during the spring, and I knew some of them had to be around, even though the water looked too shallow. At first the entire riffle looked daunting and I couldn't decide where to start. Then as I stared at the water, I noticed something. Most of the rocks on the bottom were covered with a thin film of dusty-looking silt, but in places that were slightly deeper and had a stronger current, the rocks had been wiped clean. That gave me some targets, and by pitching a Flashabou Caddis Larva into the narrow lanes of clean stones, I picked up a half-dozen ten-inch fish, more than I would have expected in such a flat, shallow riffle.  Exerpts from The Orvis Guide to Prospecting for Trout.  by Tom Rosenbauer

Assignments: 

Review what has been learned in the previous class, Class 367 Prospecting for Trout in Springs and Banks. On your next fishing outing be aware of the temperature, the flow and the other characteristics that are given in this class.

Casting Upstream and in Large Rivers

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Class Code: 
Class 4221
Syllabus: 

In this class, the student will learn how to cast under low lying branches and will also learn the longer casts needed for large tailwater rivers and the larger rivers such as are found in the Yellowstone National Park. This casts learned in this class are a must before going to Yellowstone.

Course Content: 

Painting Casts:
Like the reach cast, the rod is swept to either side after the forward cast is made. Keep the rod tip high on the final forward cast and gently swing it to one side and down to about a 2:30 or 10:30 position immediately after the fly hits the water. The fly will hit the water before any leader or line, and at that very moment sweep the rod to one side to paint the line either upstream or down as the situation may require.

It's much like a curved brush stroke in painting. The difficulty with this cast is getting the fly to hit the water exactly where you want and stay there. Sometimes, making the painting move with the rod will drag the fly away from where I want it to stay. That usually happens if I give too much effort to sweeping the rod to one side. It should be a gentle motion. If there is even a slight breeze, this cast is extremely difficult to execute because the moving air will often sweep the line farther than I want. This one requires perfect timing and feels so good when everything goes right.

Whenever I use the lean, reach, or painting cast, I try to get the fly to land three or four feet above the fish I've targeted. In the time it takes for the fly to float down to the fish I can strip a little more line from the reel and flip the extra line upstream or down to lengthen the float.   I believe too many fly fishers think the cast is over when the fly hits the water. It's only the beginning. It's what you do with the line after the fly hits the water that completes the cast. The cast is over when you pick up the line to make another cast.

And that brings me to some advice about picking up or retrieving line during the drift. Once you have determined the length of line you need to present the fly to a specific area, try to keep as much of the retrieved line in your line hand as possible. I've seen fly fishers with as much as ten yards of line flowing downstream in a big loop.

Then, when they pick up the line and fly to make another cast, they have to make three or four false casts to regain control of the line and its speed to make another cast. All this time the fly is in the air and not on the water. Keep as much line as possible in your line hand, lower the rod tip to the surface, and as you quickly raise the rod tip, yank the line toward you with your line hand with a very quick tug. Allow some line to shoot during the backcast, change the rod direction toward your target area, execute a sharp forward cast, and shoot the remainder of the line during the forward cast. 

This is impossible to do with a long loop of line hanging in the water. This pickup and forward cast will always present the fly a little farther upstream than you intended, so you must aim for a spot that is about two or three feet below where you really want the fly to land. Like everything else in fly fishing, it takes a little practice. Generally speaking, your fly will go where your thumb is pointing. To finish this cast you must apply a little reach technique to throw the line up- or downstream of the main current between you and the fly. If I need to really drop the fly on a dime, I usually make one false forward cast to make sure the direction of the fly and line is absolutely perfect; then I shoot the extra line to put the fly into a very tight area. 

This is best accomplished by keeping the rod and line loop as vertical as possible. Sometimes, especially when fishing midge adults, we need to place the fly so that it will float down to the trout in line with the middle of its nose. Trout won't usually move very far to either side to eat a tiny midge.

Sometimes you simply must cast upstream. It's almost mandatory when you're fishing small streams where there is no room to stand to one side or when you are fishing pocket water in a little mountain stream. Maintaining line control is crucial in either case. Both situations are good times to use a roll cast pickup before you make your next forward cast. It's really easy to do. Execute the beginning of a roll cast, but as the fly comes forward as it normally would on a roll cast, swiftly bring the rod to the rear the same as you would for a normal backcast. You'll get an acceleration of line speed and will easily be able to shoot ten or more feet of line on the forward cast with no false casting. 
  
Water haul cast: 

Another way to get accelerated line speed is with a water haul. This cast is especially useful in windy conditions when you need to drive a fly directly into the wind or when you are casting heavily weighted streamers long distances. A water haul in either case will allow you to cast far greater distances without making several false casts to extend line.

Cast as far as you comfortably can and allow the forward cast to land on the water.  Immediately lower the rod tip to the water's surface and strip in any loose line with your line hand at the same time. Then abruptly raise the rod to the backcast position while yanking the line with your line hand, and allow some line to shoot to the rear. Briskly bring the rod forward while giving the line a yank with your line hand. You'll be able to shoot a fourteen-inch or smaller loop for greater distance simply because the surface drag on your fly and line as you pick it up will generate a great deal of line speed. It's basically a double haul that is executed after one of the forward casts lands briefly on the water. Once again, it's a little noisy and requires a little extra strength and good timing. If you do a lot of big water fishing, you should practice this one until it consistently works for you. Sometimes you simply must be on the wrong side of the stream. It's a position where the stream is on your left and the bank is on your right (for right-handers). You want to cast upstream, but there are bushes that won't allow a normal over-the-shoulder cast. I try to solve this by facing the center of the stream and casting the fly downstream, then reversing the line direction to present the fly upstream. It amounts to a cross-body cast. You'll probably not be as accurate as you'd like, but with a little practice you can make it work. 
  
Depending on the length of the cast, I always try to keep all the retrieved line in small loops in the palm of my line hand but never wrapped around my thumb and fingers. It's a simple matter to make a loop over your thumb and little finger and transfer each succeeding loop into the palm of your hand by sliding your thumb and fingers out of the loop and folding it down to your palm with your first and second fingers. This creates three- to four-inch loops piled on top of each other. Then, when you go to shoot a little line, the coils will whisper from your hand much like spinning line from a reel. Like all things, it requires a little practice but will soon become an automatic reflex. You'll be amazed at how much line you can shoot on the forward cast with only one backcast.
 
There is a cast I learned from my old friend Koke Winter, the master of weird casts. It comes in handy when you're fishing large, fast rivers where the fish are also large and fast. I'm thinking of places like the Madison and Yellowstone rivers outside of Yellowstone National Park. On these rivers you must often cast across stream forty to sixty feet or more and land the fly on the far side of a series of variable speed currents. Immediately after the fly lands on the water, quickly strip (or have ready) five or six feet of line from the reel, lift the rod tip slightly to one side, and instantly throw a tight roll cast directly toward the fly. It's rather a savage action. You will usually throw a small loop of line near the fly, and that is often just enough line to increase a drag-free drift by as much as three or four feet. It's also possible to throw this smaller loop nearly anyplace between you and the fly to increase the length of a drag-free drift. Just make sure the loop falls to the upstream side of your fly line.

This one really feels good when it works, especially when a big fish takes the fly just before it begins to drag across current. (The described action is much like throwing a loop against the far bank or behind your fly to dislodge it from an exposed tree root or rock. Briskly raise your rod the moment the loop lands behind the fly. The sudden tug in the opposite direction will often free your fly.) Be ready to set the hook when you try this one, because the action of the tight roll cast will often cause the fly to twitch as much as six or eight inches and can trigger a strike when you least expect it.

Another time to use this cast is when you are fishing a large river and need to get your fly under a tree that's too low to the water for any kind of normal cast. It's a variation of a tight roll cast and the roll cast you would use to retrieve a fly stuck in the far bank. Cast the fly to land just short of the target. Then make a tight roll cast with your rod out to your side two or three feet above the water, and throw a fierce forward roll to create a loop no more than two or three feet high. The shallow loop will throw the fly back under the branches. It's not pretty to watch but can be most effective. There will be a little noise as you rip the line off the water and shoot the loop forward. 
 
Note: This class is baed on excerpts from Fly Fishing with AK a Stackpole Books publication.

Assignments: 

Review Class 422 for previously mastered casts. Continue to practice, practice makes perfect.

Extra Credit: 

Read these books by A. K. Best

Fly Fishing with A. K. Best by Stackpole Books

Fishing Fertile and Infertile Streams

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Class Code: 
Class 4271
Syllabus: 

The student will then learrn what flies and techniques will be the most productive on each type of trout stream; and why the same flies and techniques will not be effective on both trout streams.

Course Content: 
 
Trout fishing in the infertile waters:
The bad news is that you'll have trouble predicting what kinds of food are prevalent in an unfamiliar infertile stream. The good news is you probably won't have to. Further good news is that the flies you can get away with will be larger. Trout in infertile rivers don't have the luxury of being selective, because they don't see enough of any particular insect to get picky about which one they choose.  Either trout eat every piece of food that looks remotely edible or they starve.  In most fertile rivers the quantity of aquatic insect larvae available to the trout by midsummer is insignificant, and they depend on terrestrial insects that fall iinto the water for a great part of their food.  Since trout never see many of the same kind of aquatic insects, and the terrestrials they feed on are a stew of all shapes, sizes, and colors, they prefer to eat the largest morsel of food available, providing all else being equal.  All you have to do is turn over a few rocks or shake the bushes and decide what is the largest edible insect they are likely to recognize.
 
On infertile rivers, pass up much of the water, the stuff that doesn't look fishy. Move faster between spots, then concentrate hard on the best ­looking water. You can also move faster on infertile rivers because the trout don't agonize over fly patterns, so neither should you. Trout in infertile rivers will move farther for a fly, so unerring casts are not as important here, and if your fly lands within a foot of where you think a trout is lying and floats drag-free (or swings properly if you're fishing a wet or streamer), make a few more casts and move on. I don't want to suggest that you get sloppy, but many times trout in unproductive streams move five feet for a dry fly. As we have mentioned before, the cane pole technique can be effective with brook trout in these infertile waters. The only time a trout will move this far on a fertile river is when there are large, meaty flies like salmon flies (a huge, size 4 or 6 stonefly that hatches on western rivers) or grasshoppers on the water.
 
Dan With Large Brown TroutTrout fishing in the fertile waters:
In more fertile rivers you have to pay greater attention to what's on the trouts’s menu. The trout are used to seeing multiple foods at any given time, and although trout are not usually selective to a given species of insect, most of their food falls into specific parameters of size, shape, and color. If you go outside of that realm, you won't draw as many strikes. Here the largest available food item might be rare enough that trout don't recognize it.
 
If you intend to fish only to rising fish during hatches, geology and a knowledge of stream reading are unimportant. You need only sample the drift to find out what flies will work, and you know where the trout are because you can see them feeding. But when you prospect without the benefit of hatches, you need other clues to help you select flies and find trout. The relative richness of a river, which you can usually determine with a few minutes of observation, is one of the most important clues.
 
I've found that in richer rivers, smaller flies are more effective in catching trout. I'm not exactly sure why. Perhaps it's because smaller insect life is more abundant, and the trout are more likely to take a fly that's similar to what they're eating, while the trout in an infertile stream grab almost anything that looks edible.
 
In the Battenkill, for example, most of the nymphs are small, skinny, and brownish olive-dull. If you turn over enough rocks, though, you'll sometimes find a couple of those giant black stoneflies that trout go crazy over in the Rocky Mountains. I have tried size 6 stonefly nymphs in the Battenkill year after year, with never even a touch. Not only do the trout not eat them, I bet if I could look underwater I'd see them bolting for cover when that ugly nymph rolls into the neighborhood.
 
Trout in rich rivers are evenly distributed, all over the place, because there is enough food to support trout everywhere. Even in shallow sloughs with a mud or sand bottom, spots that look more suitable for minnows or frogs, trout can be found. In fact I've noticed that large brown trout in spring creeks seem to prefer these places over the deeper channels. On the other hand, in infertile rivers trout distribution is spotty. They will not be found in backwaters because it might be an hour's wait for a piece of food to drift by, even at the height of a heavy hatch. So trout in rivers that aren't so rich frequent the logical spots, the places that scream for a well-placed cast with an Adams or Hare's Ear nymph. These logical places are the areas protected from the heaviest flow of water, but close enough to the main current so a sideways tip will allow trout to intercept food. At the edge of seams, at the tail of a pool, in front of and behind rocks, and where the head of the pool spills over a shelf-these are all logical places.
 
On rich streams, cover all the water. Never assume that a trout won't be right in front of you, and concentrate on covering the water closest to you with repeated casts, changing flies or techniques often if you aren't getting any strikes.
 
The number and size of trout a stream can support are always limited by something, but almost never by fishing pressure or other predation. Populations of trout are usually limited by the physical features of the stream, and you can make predictions about how many trout a stream holds by an estimation of its richness. Infertile streams have little migration, stunted adults, and many juveniles. Rich trout streams, on the other hand, are space-limited. Trout can get enough food anywhere in the stream, and the total number of trout is limited by the number of available places to hold and feed without wasting an inordinate amount of energy. A rich trout stream with a bottom covered with rubble of different-sized rocks offers lots of nooks and crannies to break the force of the current, and it can hold many more trout than a stream of equal richness with a sand or gravel bottom.
 
A spring creek with many weedbeds offers protection from the current and places for the trout to hide when danger threatens, and it can hold more trout than an equally rich stream that has been widened, shallowed, and trampled by cattle.  Exerpts from The Orvis Guide to Prospecting for Trout. by Tom Rosenbauer.
Assignments: 

Try to recall your fly fishing experiences and see if you can identify, in retrospect, why some flies were effective on one trout stream and yet were not effective on another trout stream.  Put on some polarized sun glasses and armed with your new knowledge, revisit those trout streams and observe the results.  Also, if possible try the new learned techniques on a tailwaters trout stream. 

Follow these Links: The Appalachin Angler   River Through Atlanta   Davidson River Outfitte

Why Use Bamboo Fly Rods

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Using bamboo fly rods have long been considered the premier method of chasing fish.  Fishing with a bamboo fly rod, however, is more than just trying to get a hook in a fish's jaw.  Bamboo fly rods, which are usually custom made, are not only effective, but also beautiful, comfortable, and historic.  Following is a brief exploration of why you may want to fly fish with a bamboo fly rod.

1. Durabilty.  Bamboo fly rods, because they are solid throughout, are more resistant to crushing than graphite rods.

2. Better Roll Casting.  Small stream trout fishermen take note!  Because of bamboo's inherent action, roll casts are more effective with bamboo.

3. Rarified Air.  Some of the most famous flyfishers and celebreties have used bamboo.

4. Heirlooms.  A finely crafted bamboo fly rod makes a fine heirloom.

5. Smooth Action.  Because of the flexibility of the bamboo, progressive actions can be achieved to provide super smooth casting.

6.  Reserve Power.  The reserve power of a bamboo fly rod is far superior to a graphite rod.

7. Comfort.  Bamboo fly rods are much more "castable" than graphite, which means you can cast all day long and not wear out your arms and shoulders.

8. A Sense Of Community.  Bamboo fly rod enthusiasts form their own, unique subculture in the fly fishing community.

9. Sense Of Satisfaction.  If you choose to make your own bamboo fly rod, you will have a greater sense of satisfaction when you catch fish with it.

Fly Fishing with James Marsh

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As I write this blog I am staring out the window at the rain falling here in Charlotte and musing about a potential trip out to Pigeon forge, TN to visit James Marsh among other things. (Other things being a dinner trip to the Alamo Steak House). James has fished about every trout stream in the GSMNP, and most of the trout streams in the entire USA as well as many streams in other parts of the World.

In our initial trip some weeks ago now, my son Steve and I were anxious to meet James as we had read and heard about his skill with a fly fishing rod. Indeed, we were most anxious to meet James and to fish with him, but we were rained out much to our dismay. However, he entertained us by showing us three streams in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park which were not familiar to us and he showed us his new line of “Perfect Flies”. When we saw the flies, we were very impressed as the detail was far greater than any other flies that we have ever seen.
 
On my second trip to see James I purchased a complete set of his “Perfect Flies” collection for the Late Winter/Summer season in the Southeastern USA. This is a set of flies that James assembled to be sold exclusively by Trout University. Again James was the perfect host, entertaining me and showing me his “Perfect Fly” fly boxes. I was so impressed that I prevailed upon James to let us sell the fly boxes on Trout University as well.
 
Now, as I consider another trip to pick up yet another order of Perfect Flies for increasing our inventory, I am wondering how James will again make it an enjoyable visit despite the rain, or should I postpone the trip; I wonder?
 
Notice the one thing in common about my trips to Pigeon forge, TN is the rain!

Best Trout Streams in the Yellowstone National Park

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We at Troutu.com have been adding information about the best trout fishing streams in the southeast and in the Great Smokey Mountains National Park and now we have started a section on the best trout streams located in the Yellowstone National Park. The information includes the items below as well as Google Maps and more.

* General Description

* Location and Detailed Access

* Type of Stream & Species of Trout

* Fly Fishing Approach for Each Season

* Hatches & Effective Flies

* License and Regulations

Please feel free to check them out at Yellowstone National Park and please give us suggestions via the "contact" form.

Fly Fishing Japaneese Style: Tenkara

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Tenkara is the traditional simplified Japanese method of fly-fishing developed over centuries in the small mountain streams of Japan. In this method, only a telescoping rod, line and fly are used; there is no need for a reel. Without the complexity of the added gear, you are free to focus on your casting and fishing techniques.  

Tenkara is especially effective for fishing the pocket water in the fast flowing streams such as are found in the Great Smoky Mountains. The obvious advantages are the simplicity, the ability to make delicate and precise presentations, the ability to keep the line off the water and the ability to reach small overgrown challenging streams. The Tenkara method also gives perfect control over the fly at all times.
 
All that is needed is a telescoping rod that is 11 to 13 feet in length when fully extended. To the end of the rod, tie a length of small diameter fish line that is approximately one foot longer than the extended rod. To the end of the line attach the fly; simple! And since the rod collapses down to 20 inches Tenkara is great for the SmokeyMountains backpacking and camping trips.
 
The fly is propelled by the line as done in the West, but the fly casting technique is shorter and slower. The Tenkara rig will also be perfect for dry fly fishing in the small mountain streams using the Great Smoky Mountaineer developed method of "caneing" using cane poles as well as the "slingshotting" or "bow and arrow"method of fishing. Also, the Tenkara method can be employed for high-sticking nymphs or for the Czech method of nymph fishing.
 
Landing a fish is very intuitive and similar to any type of fishing with a rod. All the angler must do is to simply raise the rod high, and reach for the fish.
 
For much more information on the subject refer to Tenkara USA. 

Google Map the Great Smoky Mountains National Park

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To assist anglers in planning fishing trips,TroutU has started to provide the following valuable information on popular trout fishing streams throughout the USA istarting with the Southeast and the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

* General Description
* Location and Detailed Access
* Type of Stream & Species of Trout
* Fly Fishing Approach for Each Season
* Hatches & Effective Flies
* License and Regulations
In addition, TroutU is now working with Google Map junkie Flyfishingreporter to provide a Google Map of the streams found in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
 

For assistance in using google Maps.

Fly Fishing the Green Sedge Pupa

The Green Sedge Pupae General Description:
The green sedge (green rock worm) hatch occurs from early spring through the middle of summer and occasionally on a warm day in the fall of the year. There are over 100 species of the green sedge so it may be possible that the hatch can be extended depending on that particular species. Normally, as a hatch occurs, it will last over one month before all have hatched, deposited their eggs and die.

In the late afternoon hours in the spring, you will often see them emerging and swimming to the surface of the water. Later in the season, they will emerge in the early evenings..

 
 Presentation Information:
As with the pupa you should fish the imitation fly on the bottom of the fast moving waters, riffles, and runs. Of course weight will be necessary to compensate for the depth and the speed of the water. An alternative is to fish it as a dead drift somewhat below the surface, or you can fish it as if it rising to the surface. As you swing the rod, lift it up and let it down to simulate the movement of the pupa as it rises to the surface. 

 

See the new double sided fly boxes.